Buffing question
 

I think a good buffing job would bring the paint out and give it back a good shine. I've watched on you tube but everyone has their own way. Can someone recommend a good way to buff? What brand, do I use a clay bar? I'm not sure on using an electric sander because I'm afraid it will leave scratch marks. has anyone done this and how did it work?
Thanks for any help,
Joe

Re: Buffing question
 

There is a product called Color Back-

http://www.autozone.com/wash-cleaner...wax/553990_0_0

This truck had chalky paint and had sat in the desert -
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...39&postcount=7

and it came out very well. I would do color back and a polishing compound on a low rpm buffer, then a quality wax.

Re: Buffing question
 

Do you all think buffing my T-all will bring out the shine? I would have to buy a buffer and all the pads and everything else and I'm okay with that. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks again,
Joe

Re: Buffing question
 

I am no expert. I have buffed and shined many old vehicles. I have tried all kinds of compounds polishes and buffers. easiest bang for your buck is nu-finish . all part stores have it and it goes on and off easy.

Re: Buffing question
 

Regardless of the product(s) you buy, get an old crash panel or door from a wreck and practise on it first.

Re: Buffing question
 

Are you looking to get a rotary or orbital buffer? I use both . My rotary is a Makita and the orbital is a flex(german) . There are countless products out there to bring the shine back. From very aggressive to just polish. The orbital will take longer to achieve a shine if the paint is very oxidized but is very forgiving . Rotory takes a lot of practice and if you hit an edge can burn though the paint very quickly. There are several boards and videos from Mequiars that show the correct process .

Most orbitals sold at like Wal-Mart and auto stores are cheap and give poor results. Although I did see AutoZone was carrying Griot's garage orbitals which is a good product.

If your unsure have a auto detailer look at it. May be cheaper in the long run to have it done professionally.

Re: Buffing question
 

Electric sander? Do you mean using like a porter cable orbital with a buffing pad? I started with one from home depot with a mequiars pads worked well but wore out quickly and is not that powerfull .But it's like 100$ the flex kit i have is over 400 on autogeeks.

Re: Buffing question
 

I have a nephew in CA that has a high end detailing company...I asked him on this for my 72 C10. Because I'm just going with the patina look, he said start with 1500 grit wet dry then to 2000 grit. Then use a cutting compound on a wool buffing pad and then use a polishing compound on a sponge wheel..so..I'm on to door #2 after sanding the cab down..(everything is apart) and the paint is super smooth. Yes, I used an orbital sander and on the ridges..well let's say that I have a lighter hand now. Thank God it's a patina truck and not my daily driver.

Two things I noted; 1. Don't start what you can't finish. 2. Sanding is a pain, so I tried just to cut with the wool and buff with the sponge wheels then wax..it looked OK. Then I tested a spot after sanding...man..it's amazing.

Doing it right is a lot of work but it's done right.

9 day's quit from dipping tobacco today!

Re: Buffing question
 

Thanks for the help and the pictures. Modaddio, keep going with the No Dip,
you can do it!!!

Re: Buffing question
 

I detail on the side, for some extra money. Look at Griot's, I use just about all their products. It is best to clay bar before polishing. And they have an orbital that you'll never be able to burn the paint with. They have how to videos also.

https://www.griotsgarage.com/

Re: Buffing question
 

Thank you sir, 16 days quit. www.killthecan.org if there are any other guys there that need to quit for life.

I'll continue to post as the other compounds come in. Steps, process, if I like it or not. Might have to consider the non burning sander. I have a few thin spots. Or, I'll just go super light with the 2k WD paper.

Anywhoooo....

More livin, more building, more fun.

Re: Buffing question
 

Kind of confused on what exactly you’re trying to do here


Are you trying to restore an old paint job and polish it up?

If so a wool pad with a heavy cut compound on a forced rotation (thing big angle grinder) and a delicate touch will remove a lot of orange peel and level a clear coat

Then you want to step up with a medium to heavy correcting pad (griots garage works great) and a medium compound

Then for the last step a soft/polishing pad (griots garage red pad) and a good polish.

I use local products (Killerwaxx)
And when I do paint correction on cars, I hardly ever use our heaviest cutting compound.


But if you want it to shine. Wet sand with 1500 then move up to 3000.
And you could get away with a wool pad, and a light compound. Then go back over it with a polishing pad to fix any minor imperfections. And seal with a carnuaba was of your choice

Re: Buffing question
 

You need Meguiars #7 Glaze. Lots of it. It goes on by hand, leave one coat over night. Next day re-apply. Using fiber towels to put on & remove. You are restoring old lacquer (single stage of yesterday) by replenishing the dried paint w/natural oils. After 5-6 coats it will begin to shine. Keep going, be patient! Using a cutter/polish will strip away too much paint. Esp. a rookie. When a real shine emerges, a foam pad (blue or red) on a Dual action polisher (Porter Cable) light touch and several more coats of #7 will amaze you. Top it w/several coats of SEALANT (wax is inferior) of your choice.