Installing junction box for battery needed connections
 

I recently rebuild the engine harness in my 1987 Chevrolet V30. My goal is only have one wire running to each terminal on the battery, however with the newer accessories (H4 upgraded headlight harness, HD power window kit upgrade, etc.) I am finding this may be a challenge because all of these accessories are required to draw power from the battery.

I was going to install a Stud Type Plastic Junction Box in the engine compartment to run all these connections there. Is this how people are handling these type of situations?

Any tips or recommendations - I am all ears. Thanks everyone.

Re: Installing junction box for battery needed connections
 

That's what I did. I mounted a 4 lug distribution block on the core support by the headlight bucket. I still ended up useing batt terminal extenders. I am running electric fan relays, headlight relays, Vintage Air A/C relays and LED light bar relays, which of course, say they need direct battery power. And when I add the Amp for the stereo, there will be another batt connection.

Re: Installing junction box for battery needed connections
 

Thanks SunSoaked. This is what / where I was leaning because I would like to keep it out of sight.

Re: Installing junction box for battery needed connections
 

.
I'm curious what hardware you guys used/are going to use. I've got this in my cart at Summit. Was also thinking of using a single stud type distribution point.

Thanks,

-klb

Re: Installing junction box for battery needed connections
 

I have one of these under the hood in my 70. Each circuit gets it's own fuse. Nice and clean. I want to do a second one in the cab for accessories.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900360/overview/

Re: Installing junction box for battery needed connections
 

So question on this. If you were to run this, how would you know what fuses to run? It is an interesting setup.

Re: Installing junction box for battery needed connections
 

I have installed in my rig the exact same design unit. Cut the wires and soldered connectors and bolted it up.

Noticed my electrical system responded quite well. I must have gained 50 hp and 2 seconds in my 1/4 mile ET.:metal:

Re: Installing junction box for battery needed connections
 

For fuses, I aim for about 1.5-2 times what I expect the circuit to draw. All simple electronics, no microchips, so I'm not worried about frying anything. I really like the fuse block so I don't need to run a bunch of inline fuses. I have a bunch of circuit breakers in there, which normally do not fit cleanly in fuse holders.

Currently connected to my fuse block:
low beam relay: 2x 35 watt = ~6 amps => 10 amp fuse
High beam relay: 2x 55watt = ~9 amps => 20 amp fuse
Fog Light relay: 2x 55watt = ~9 amps => 20 amp fuse
Factory in cab fuse block: 30 amps. Kind of a guess. Biggest fuse in the fuse block is 20A. I should probably see how much I actually draw with the HVAC fan and wipers on.
Ammeter: 5A - That's what was there before.

Re: Installing junction box for battery needed connections
 

look at my firewall, this junction is a stock 89-9x piece

Re: Installing junction box for battery needed connections
 

I'm using this "industrial" piece. I like the quality over typical automotive types. I have a short 4 guage jumper from the battery to the large primary hole. Then I have 6 outlets to run my accessories. It is a clean, durable piece and I prefer the setscrew locking feature. Keep in mind you must use in-line fuses on all the outlet circuits.

https://m.grainger.com/mobile/produc...fc=MWP2IDP2PCP

Re: Installing junction box for battery needed connections
 

Thanks everyone.