Ignition problem
 

I have a 67 GMC k25 it has 350 small block I just put back in and a msd ignition when I was doing the timing it started and ran fine using a remote switch straight to the bat terminal on the distributor. I got the timing done then I tried to start it with the ignition switch and nothing but a click off some kind of relay on the fire wall. But I ran a new switch bypassing everything and now it will keep cranking but no spark, I'm not sure what's going on with it because the distributor and the coil and everything is fine. Anybody have any ideas?

Re: Ignition problem
 

Welcome to the board....

Where did you power the distributor from? I'm not familiar with the MSD stuff but it sounds like you aren't getting power to the distributor.

Also, is the small wire from the battery + terminal connected to the junction block on the inner fender?

LockDoc

Re: Ignition problem
 

Yea I can't figure out why I'm not getting power when I turn they key I get all my accessories and no when I put the engine back in my dumbass forgot what two wires went were if the one goes to the positive terminal where does the other one go? Thanks

Re: Ignition problem
 

I think there is only one wire from the battery to the junction block. If there are two wires connected to the junction block I guess they would both go to the + terminal on the battery. Can you take a picture of that area and post it up.

LockDoc

Re: Ignition problem
 

It sounds to me like you first bypassed the ignition system and then you bypassed the start system. You need to get the stock wiring in place and then wire in the MSD ignition.

The 67 does not have an accessory position on the switch so all the accessories are powered by the ignition position on the key. You should have a red wire going to the switch which is a 12 gauge (large) and a pink wire for the ignition and accessories. The pink wire from the switch will split and go to the firewall for the coil, another pink will go to the fuse panel for the accessories.

You should also have a smaller wire on the ignition terminal which is the alternator resistor wire which excites the alternator to "turn on".

In addition you will have a 12 gauge purple wire which will go to the firewall and out the engine bay side and run to the starter solenoid. It may go through a switch on the steering column called the neutral start switch which prevents the engine from starting when it is in gear. Standard shifts will have a switch, usually on the transmission which does the same thing.

If you have power to the solenoid but the starter will not turn then you will hear a loud click. like you describe.

Here is a link to the MSD wiring web page. If you can see PDF documents take a look at page 10 through 12 for the wiring. I think you will have to run the pink wire from the key to the MSD box to feed the distributor then the distributor will feed the ignition coil.

http://documents.msdperformance.com/6201.pdf

If you need more help with the wiring I will be on later tonight.

Re: Ignition problem
 

Now I got the key to crank it without bypassing, I also don't have a neutral safety switch. But now it just cranks right when I turn the key to the on position instead of start and the brake light comes on when I turn the key on, I'm not sure if the coil is getting power yet I'm waiting for the battery to charge

Re: Ignition problem
 

You have the purple wire where the pink one should be, methinks. Have you had the plug off the switch, and is the plug solid, not just wires running to the switch?

Re: Ignition problem
 

The purple where the pink should be on the ignition switch? And what plug

Re: Ignition problem
 

Right, on the ignition switch. I wasn't clear, now that I look back- there should be a plastic holder for all the wires. If you don't have that (old, cracked, maybe melted at some point), it's easy to plug individual wires on the wrong terminals. I've done that myself, sometimes with spectacular results. ;)

Re: Ignition problem
 

My 67 has the plug, some of the older models had the individual wires that screwed onto the switch terminals. I am beginning to think that we have a hodge podge of stuff here. I would be best to start at the battery positive terminal and go from there. This is what Locdoc mentioned when he asked about the terminal on the right fender.
Here's what it looks like.


Attachment 1801232


The small black wire with the funny looking fuse holder is one of the wires to the battery gauge if you have the gauge cluster.