Re: Rat repair.
 

Went out and pulled the seat carpet and underlayment, took a close look under the dash and pinpointed 2 leak sources, I posted in the paint and body section if anybody can help. Thanks!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...69#post6294869

Re: Rat repair.
 

Picked up the correct rear springs yesterday, still waiting for my shackle and bushing package that is now out for delivery.... and after fighting the nasty weather for the last 3 weeks the forecast is now sunny for this weekend, and i'm working! :(

Oh well, i'll still have time to get some of it done.

In the mean time i made an upgrade to my other truck, its not a chevy but thats ok.. It looks so much better!

Re: Rat repair.
 

A little update, i got my package from Off Road Designs Greasable bolt kits and new front and read shackles, the one picture on the rear shows how the bushings are not full length to allow the grease from the bolt to come thru. Ya got to spin these bolts a little on install to make the grease flow.

Friday i got the front springs and shackles installed, had to grind some clearance into the passenger header flange to make way for the new wider shackles. Also the Rancho spring center bolt head was much smaller than the hole in the axle so the holes in the axles had to be cleaned up of a bunch of rust and garbage before the BDS springs would fit.

Then i figured out that on full axle drop the brake lines i bought come up a little short, but i had already installed then at the frame and tossed the box's debating on going ahead and bleeding the brakes and replacing them later, there only about 1.5 inches shy of being total slack. This 4" kit from BDS is turning out to be a bit taller than the 4" rancho kit, plus the Off Road designs shackle kit adds about 1/2 " as well.

Today i installed the 4" raised steering arm and link, tie rod, and the BDS steering stabilizer. Not overly thrilled about the stabilizer bracket design at this point, I liked the Rancho stuff better. Plus i then remembered i will have to adjust toe in so I'll have to loosen the bracket on the tie rod again later.

Tomorrow final torque the U bolts and install the front shocks, then start on the rear spring and shock install, after that all i got to do is bleed the brakes. and go for a test drive.

Oh, My seat cover showed up on my door step on Friday as well. :metal:

Re: Rat repair.
 

Was able to get the front end finished less setting the toe in and adjusting the steering rod Don't mind saying that frozen spring bolts are a pita!

The brake lines are almost too short, at full extension i get about 1 1/2 inch flex side to side on the hoses but they could have used an additional inch maybe 2.

It turns out this BDS 4" lift is almost 2" taller than the Rancho 4" with the addition of the ORD shackles which add an additional 1/2 "I didn't think to take a measurement of the old system for fender well space but i can compare pictures later.

I regret not having the time to wire brush and black the front of the frame while doing this but i really need to get this thing drivable and back under its cover soon.

Re: Rat repair.
 

So with the front done i moved back to the rear now that i have the proper rear springs, had i got the correct rear springs the first time from the place i bought them from i would have started on the rear springs when i finished the disk conversion, oh well a little extra work huffing stuff around :)

Supported the truck just ahead of the rear springs, the truck was a little unstable so i lifted the back a little and measured the higth of the rear hitch and found a log round the right size to help support the truck, nice and stable and safe for me.

As usual the bolts are frozen in the sleeves and won't turn, grabbed my sawzall and tried to cut the rear bolts just like i did on the front, it wouldn't even faze the bolts! checked the blade, it seems sharp enough but i get a new blade anyway, still won't cut! Moved to the U bolts and discovered the nuts were froze solid but they were not tight, great! grabbed the sawzall and sliced right thru them.. Checked my cuttoff wheel and 4" grinder and it won't reach thru the bolts ether..

Gonna give in and go buy a torch set tomorrow morning, and a new modem as i have been having connectivity issues the past week.. For the cutting by torch i am glad the truck is outside, but the rain is on the way again... ;)

Re: Rat repair.
 

It's looking real nice! I would be a little concerned with those front brake lines. It looks like they're really close to their max. I have this problem on mine and I had new lines made, but still didn't make them long enough. They are 24" long, and if that's longer than the ones you have, let me know, and they're yours.

Re: Rat repair.
 

Yea i figured i probably better get some longer ones being as i cant get the rear springs out yet, I have to spend the day running errands before work so i will swing in to 4 wheel parts while i'm in Tacoma (not where i bought my lift) and see if they have any in stock. The problem i'm finding with most web sites is they say good for a 4" lift ect but don't give measurements.. Thanks for the compliments!

Re: Rat repair.
 

If you want to measure yours from end to end and see if they are < 24", and you think 24" will work for you, just pay for shipping and I'll send these brand new ones to you. On my frame, my brake lines actually needed to go to a hole in the frame in front of the bump stop, instead of behind it like the newer models.

Re: Rat repair.
 

Just went back and read your post about the brake lines, your post brought up a real good point..... :lol: I'll go measure them after i finish my coffee and let you know.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=358

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It looks to me like 24" would work out great! Measuring from the flange that nests into the frame to the center of the eye bolt, the ones i have measure 19.5" I'll send a PM.

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Hi Swamp Rat
I checked out your build thread. I have similar rear disk break conversation that you are installing. It came with the 14 bolt axel I bought. I changed out the brake calipers with one off a Cadillac Eldorado as they have parking break lever on the caliper. I have not completed the installation yet as I'm still working on the rotted sheet metal. Will you be using a line lock for parking break?

Re: Rat repair.
 

My initial plan was to add a drive line brake system but haven't ruled out adding a line lock. Still researching that one, i hear one is available from TCI and another from Mr Gasket but haven't started searching yet.

Re: Rat repair.
 

Back to where i left off at post 80:

Woke up the day after i posted about not being able to cut thru the bolts, i put so much force into trying to make the cuts i musta pulled some muscles because i hurt pretty bad for a couple days.. :)

So Sunday it was apparent i could not buy a functioning torch to save my life so i called it quits for the day.

Monday i headed Harbor Freight to look at and bought a new floor jack, the jack i have would lift fine but the release screw would stick bad so every time i tried to let it down easy it took too so much force to turn the handle more often than not it would drop hard, just too dangerous when setting jack stands ect. Bought the 4T model from Pittsburgh, it seems like its a nice jack but i haven't used it just yet...

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-h...8056-8050.html

Then i went to a local welding place with the intent of buying a Victor torch set, the set i wanted including the one time purchase of full bottles took me to over $600, and there was a also little voice in my head that kept repeating the words Plasma....Plasma...Plasma.... I have used them before so i started asking about Plasma cutters that would also fit my needs, drawbacks, requirements ect. the only thing it won't do for me is braze welding and heating rusted bolts, but it cuts much nicer than a torch.. So for a little less than double the cost of the torch set i came home with one of these, made in America and they also make the Miller plasma cutters as well (per the sales guy) so consumables shouldn't be a problem. I've needed a cutter for years so figured now would be a good time

http://www.hypertherm.com/en/Product...powermax30.jsp

Moisture on the other hand would be a problem so i bought another filter water separators for my compressor on the way home and i promptly grabbed the wrong thread and have to exchange it tomorrow. :waah:

I also gave in and ordered longer front brake lines as well, it was a frekin expensive day! I'll be paying for this for quite a while.... :smoke: But i'll be back at it pretty soon.. everyone needs a break now and then..

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Sorry to hear you spent so much. My brother bought a plasma cutter from Harbor Freight and it was returned by previous person and it was on sale. The sales manager just wanted to get rid of it. he walked out the door for $367.00 + air dryer. I installed new cord and plug to use at my house. It works great. To bad we live so fare away. I have a spare torch set i would be willing to sell.

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Plasma cutter was the best investment I've ever made I love it!

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Yea i could have gotten the Harbor freight one, but i don't trust harbor freight stuff for long life, if its something like this i'd rather go American made. its all good.

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So i got my compressor set up now with an extra 25' of line coming off the compressor and then built a small manifold system with a couple drain valves on the bottom, I also added a filter/water separator on both the front and back of the manifold, then attached my air hose, I now have some dry air! The extra 25' of hose allows the air to cool before it hits the filter/water separator.

Had some fun today cutting the springs, shackles and bolts off the truck, that rubber is some pretty nasty stuff, but i got it done and got one side installed, the other side has just the front bolt installed then had to quit cause it was late and dark.

I found one possible problem, the small stock bracket that sits on the top of the springs looks like its too thin, at least for these U-bolts, the inner corner of the U-bolts hit the springs before they get tight against the bracket. I would like to replace them with something a bit more thick or sturdy, or at a minimum maybe cut a piece of strap to place under it?

I had to cut a few threads off the upper shackle bolt to gain some clearance.

The passenger side mounts seem to be squeezed a little tighter cause i'm having more trouble getting the springs and shackle slipped into place, wish i had a Port-a-Power to open them up a little..

My new jack seems to be great so far too.

Re: Rat repair.
 

looking great! The disc brakes really modernize it too. I am basically doing the same thing. On the eaton, I see you fought the mounting plate a little and they moved the holes, I hope I don't have that issue as well but we'll see. How do you like the length of the new studs on the eaton rear? Have you bolted on the wheels yet to see how they look? They just look long, but that may in fact be a good thing.

Also, curious what was wrong with your front hubs that they needed replacing? As for the spindles, were they worn from the oil seals? Frustrating to hear the stuff is different between 72's and 71's. The rear drum brakes are different on the eatons as well between those two years.

keep up the good work, curious to see what you do for a parking brake.

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I believe the fix for your rear u bolts is another trip to Off Road Design

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The rear lugs work great with my aluminum wheels, i had the wheels back on when i was doing some of the final assembly to the front.

The wheel bearings were way out of adjustment enough that the bearing races wore on the spindle enough that it was undersized,, the big lock nut was backed off and i guess the inner nut backed off as well, i didn't want to risk trying to use them and have to rework it allover again.

I have pretty much decided that i'll install a driveline brake but that will be sometime next year hopefully. Thanks for stopping by.. :)

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Got the last spring installed today sans all the U bolts being as i need to find and order new top plates.. gives me time to prep and paint the lower bracket (saddle???) I'll have something ordered by Monday hopefully.. But for now i gotta go to work..

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Thanks, i'll check into it Monday!

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I forgot to add unlike the driver side where i was able to slide the spring and bushings or shackle into the stock frame hangers fairly easy. The passenger side was so tight it took me forever to get the front spring bolt thru the sleeve and thru the back side of the mount, I finally got the bolt thru after fighting it for about an hour with an alignment drift, jack, dead blow hammer ect, then tried to get the ORD shackle installed in the rear mount but it was also fighting me, plus it was past dark so i wrapped it up for the night.

I was thinking to myself i could sure use a Porta Power to get in there and open the mount up a little but i'm sure not gonna go buy one. Then i had an idea, simple but as it ended up pretty effective, i found a bolt, nut and 2 washers for each side, then greased up the threads and greased the washers and slipped into into place and started backing the nut into the outer part of the mount, i estimate i under pressure moved the outer part of the flange about 1/4" then cranked the nut in and released it, the mount of course looked like it came right back to the original spot but i took the bolt assy out and was able to work the ORD shackle into place with just a little effort. Worked like a champ!

Zoomed in a little too close, the threads are sticking out of the outer hole of the mount, Bolt head is against the back hole.

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Thast a good idea to us the bolt and nuts to spread the hanger. I think I will have to steel your idea when I get aroung to working on mine.

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Just smear that grease around so it moves freely, threads included, also i used a grade 8 bolt and nut, fine thread. The wrenches did not have that much resistance so i never felt like i was getting into a hairy situation but i was concerned that if i went too far maybe the mount would stress crack or something cause i don't know if they are hardened steel.