Re: Rat repair.
 

One vote for Skyjackers... :)

Re: Rat repair.
 

I did find shocks on the fox webpage that fit my truck properly, but according to the BDS tech guy shocks direct from Fox are not valved the same and the Fox shocks they sell the valving is specific for their springs... So i just emailed Fox to ask them if its true.... The webpage does say application specific valving..

Re: Rat repair.
 

This is a great thread. I really enjoyed reading it.

Sorry to hear about your tribulations with the shock absorbers. I'd be pretty skeptical of the shocks being special made for BDS. Sounds like a great way to up the price on a shock absorber.

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Thanks for the comps, sometimes i think the thread needs a little less talk and a lot more action.. LOL!

Actually there Fox Shocks that are just Valved to BDS's specification.. BDS charges $115 for then each if you buy them outright but to upgrade from their regular shocks to the Fox's its an additional $269 or something like that, i don't know how much they would charge for the regular white shocks or who makes them, maybe they turn a little profit with the upgrade??

So i talked to my local shop about it again, i decided I'd give the front shocks a shot even tho they only have 4.25" of compression travel left when sitting on the wheels, they did order me different rear shocks that give me more travel plus BDS is tossing in a set of the 5/8's U bolts that my truck had originally to replace the 1/2" set that came in the kit..

I figure i mainly drive on blacktop with an occasional dirt road for camping or maybe dirt biking so i should be ok, but i do have some concerns if i get into a pot holed out spot on the road. it may be a mistake but i admittedly am curious about how the shocks handle.

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I did pull my stabilizer off so i could set my toe in and should be reinstalling it tomorrow, but going to try installing it a little differently. I'm figuring i'll give the breaks another shot this weekend cause i get another weekend off, i sure hope its not raining!

Re: Rat repair.
 

Maiden voyage sans shocks and stabilizer, brakes seem to pull a little to the right when going forward, don't know if its just the crown in the road or not, seemed to not pull at all when in reverse. I just went around the block for the time being till i get shocked. All the calipers are grabbing the disks ok, all the surface rust is rubbed off.

Pretty happy with the stance of the lift kit, its a little more level than the old Rancho kit but still a little higher in the back. When the time comes to tow with it i may have to put some air bags on it too.

Now for some possible bad news, the fluid was leaking out of the master cylinder lid! sigh.. i took it off and wiped everything down but not too convinced that the new lid is flat, i went ahead and reversed it for now even tho its symmetrical, if it continues to leak i hope the auto parts store can find me a better one without doing an exchange, and before i totally distroy the paint on it and the surrounding area.

Parked back under the cover for now finally, time to clean the driveway! Tonight- Steak and a beer! :)

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Congrats brother! I know how that feels, the first drive. They are only little bugs to be worked out. Hope to see you out and about.:metal:

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Welcome back Randy!

I think the brakes pulling to the right may be air in the lines, unfortunately my vacuum bleeder turned out to be a POS. I need a better way.

It will be a bigger bug if the auto parts store tells me if i wanna get a better lid to the master that i have to yank it and do a complete master exchange.. :smoke: Lets hope its gonna seal ok.

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looks killer man.

i think ill keep the drum brakes on mine though since i plan to pull a goose neck with it once in a while.

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Thanks for the comps Skid99!

I have been sidetracked getting my seat frame ready to take to the Upholstery place this Saturday, its a good day to head that way (up north a ways) because the guy is a 67-72 truck nut and he's having a truck show this Saturday.

I bought this frame about 2 years ago at a swap meet, its for the deep foam seat, the frame has developed some rust so i have been sanding it down and primer and paint, i have the bottom sanded and primed, have to get the top sanded and primed today, and if i have time the first top coat of paint on the lower.

Test fitting the American Cushion Industry's foam, Bought the seat cover here on the forum from the vendor Truckseats.

I could use another seat bracket adjust lock if someone has an extra one.

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are you happy with that foam cushion ?... i need to do the same thing.

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It from my understanding is the highest quality foam on the market, its made in America and not the import stuff. EDIT, but i should add i have not sat on the new foam yet, i have sat on truck seats with the stock 6" foam and they are a lot plusher than the spring/2" foam seat.

You also need to know if you have a spring seat or a full foam seat frame, the replacement cushions are made for the full foam seat only. How you tell is to look at the bottom of your seat, if the springs run straight across the bottom from front to back its a fill foam seat, if the springs arch upward then its a spring seat. A full foam seat has a good 6" of foam, the spring sear has only 2" of foam.

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Earlier in my build i was using Phosphorus acid to coat my axles and U bolt plates ect, It works ok, it covers the rust and turns it to a black iron oxide (i think that was the name)

2 days ago i was reading another build thread and they prepped the rusty parts with Muratic acid, the parts, cast rotors and hubs were unbelievably void of rust, so today i bought some to work on my seat tracks.

When i first opened the jug the fumes started rolling out of the jug, i knew this was some real toxic stuff and in for a nasty job ahead. I first tried to pour it in a new spray bottle, it sprayed fine but the bottle was leaking allover and i didn't buy rubber gloves, big mistake! so i washed up cause this stuff burns, then i filled an old coffee cup and used a brush, the fumes on this stuff are super strong and also toxic, the breeze was on and off so i had to hold my breath then step over to the parts then coat and back away and catch my breath.

It took about an hour to get the worst of the rust, but a lot of the surface rust melted off in about 10 minutes, not very good pictures and forgot to get before shots but these brackets were solid rust when i started. Another benifit was that it cleaned out the track so they slide super smooth now..

I have washed my hands with Dawn dish washing liquid 4 times now and the stuff is still on my fingertips, it slaked in, plus my fingers smell like rust too. Don't mess around with this stuff without being outside with lots of ventilation and heavy rubber gloves!

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Dam that's impressive. Looks like new metal. I wonder how this would do on a frame? Did you jist wash it off with water afterwards

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Yes just used the garden hose, i put it on full strength.

I think for a frame there would be way too much vapors and I'd recommend sand or media blasting.

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Amazing stuff, and i thought my vinegar was good stuff....gotta try muriatic acid OUTSIDE:smoke:

Nice work on your build

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No smoking dude.. :)

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You guys are figuring out my secrets and tricks. I buy Muriatic acid by the case at the pool supply store. Its 11 dollars for 6 gallons that way.

Look closely in the background. I use a ton of the stuff....

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...cfca34fee3.jpg

Its hell on rusty gas tanks too. Cleans them right up, inside and out.

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...rmtruck052.jpg

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Before i left for work i put some rusty bolts in that coffee cup and poured some Muriatic acid on them to cover, the cup was blowing fumes almost immediately so i took it outside of the garage..

I think if you poured this down the drain you would probably have to call a plumber!

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Any luck with the pulling to the side under braking?




Wouldn't discs be better for towing also?

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Yea that was a little cheaper than the $7-8 i payed for my gallon jug.. What do they use it for regarding swilling pools?? EDIT: I didn't have a magnifying glass to read the small print.. :)

Ya know i tried a gas tank liner in a motorcycle tank called Kreem on time, its a 3 stage treatment, i said i'd never use the stuff ever again, it discolored and started to flake away at the filler.. Wish i had known about this stuff then, but the trick would have been keeping it off the paint.

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I had to put a hold on the brake issue this week to get my seat frame prepped and painted, tomorrow i have to head off to a truck show and drop off the seat, new foam and cover to an upholstery place, i'm almost done, will be going home here in a few to put the final black paint on the sliders, they are primed already.

I have a plan of attack on the calipers, just got to make the time to get it done, i'm hoping Sunday i can find the time.

Would Disks be better for towing? I don't know if it will matter much ether way, I have the proper Proportioning valve, plus the calipers are the same as the fronts, and normally the front brakes supply about 80% of the braking power, now the Drums have more surface area, but is the slave cylinder any stronger or weaker? I don't know.

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I'm no pool guy, but my in laws own a company. You use chlorine and Muriatic acid to keep the water proper. Its way common to see a pool owner pour a gallon of Muriatic acid into the pool to adjust something or the other.

Internet research shows......"Muriatic acid, or hydrochloric acid, is used in swimming pools to lower the pH and total alkalinity of the pool water."

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This is good info here I might have to do something with my seat.

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Swamp rat it looks like you went through hell on your suspension but it looks great. And your truck looks nice with the lift. Like the tires and wheels also. Great job nice truck.