77 C10 revival
 

So I bought this 77 C10 this weekend. Wasn't really looking for one as I already have my 86 C10 project. But this popped up for a good price on a facebook group. I initially offered a trade for a 01 Suburban I have not alot into. I later withdrew that trade when I got more photos of the truck. Needs some rust work, but it's solid, says the kid. I offered $800 cash site unseen and the game was on. Drove out with an empty trailer Saturday morning. Get to see this thing and, well it wasn't quite in driver condition as described of course! Kinda hemmed and hawed over it, was seriously just going to walk away at that point, needs cab work. Floors, rockers, supports, in addition to the fenders and some bed rust. Tailgate is pretty messed up too. I'm like, yea man this is more than I really wanted to get into. Kid instantly lowballs himself. "yea how about $500". I think about it. "yea sure guess that'd be worth it, as long as we can drag it outta this hole." one side had flat tires and was sunk in. Yea only been sitting here a year or two. Sure. Dragged it out no problem with my 454 Burb, then almost walked away again when my winch wouldn't work. Cleaned up the rusty jumper clips, and looked like I was into a $500 C10 again.

Besides all the beat body panels, it's not bad. Didn't fire up of course. Ancient battery in it. 292 six 3 speed equipped. Going to get that setup running again. Can't shift the trans currently, I got under the truck and it seems the levers on the trans are jammed? Kinda want to get that working again for the nostalgia of it all. Really the only reason I was interested in the truck. The frame and underside are quite clean considering the condition of the body. Seems the Rusty Jones undercoating saved this truck, it's still there.

So, long story short, I plan to get it running, tune up the engine and get he trans shifting again. Get it rolling, new tires, all new brakes and lines. Get the rust all cut out and repaired. Thats the basics, really. Hoping to turn this around quick.

Re: 77 C10 revival
 

Nice start.

P.S. Do you still have the wagon?

Re: 77 C10 revival
 

Nice, the interior looks to be in good shape too

Re: 77 C10 revival
 

It's very common for the transmission to get shifted into 1st & 2nd at the same time. I had a 1974 pickup with that gearbox when I was a kid and it would shift into 2nd without dropping out of 1st all the time.
Chock the wheels, set the E-brake, climb under and shift the 2-3 & R-1 levers back into neutral on the transmission.

Three on the tree isn't that difficult to get back to working condition.
IIRC the bushings on the column tabs are the same as the automatic shift lever bushings. I'm really not sure about the transmission paddles to shift rods bushings.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=215307

Re: 77 C10 revival
 

Yea still in pieces haven't touch it since I moved to the new house about 4 years ago. Someday!

I didn't really see bushings on the trans levers, I squeezed under there while it was strapped down to the trailer. I did do some reading and it seems to be a common issue. I suppose old collapsed body mounts don't help the issue.

Re: 77 C10 revival
 

This is what the 73-78 2wd linkage should look like according to the 73-78 GM Light Truck Illustration book...
The x.xxx numbers are sections in the 73-78 Parts book. Download em to find the original part numbers.
http://m.gmpartswiki.com/getbigpage?pageid=55565

Shagged body mounts don't help but they don't tend to shift around much if the body itself is still OK.
You really want to snug up the paddles and gate at the bottom of the column and get em set properly.
Usually the rubber on the #6 Grommet in the second set of pictures disappears on both shift rods. The grommet is available but save the sleeve. You'll need to go to section 4.035 in the parts book to find the grommet part number. It's the same part GM used on a lot of cars, vans, and light trucks as far back as the 1950's.

If your hairpin clips are rusted away or damaged sny hairpin clip with the correct wire diameter should work just fine.

The pivot parts on the R-1 linkage at the transmission are similar to the TH350 TH400 controls. The plastic ball wears and the spring rusts away but you can still get the parts.