Starter Dilemma 350 crate /700r4
 

New 350 crate engine was installed. Think they reused the flexplate and starter. Been having starter problems like either nothing or not engaging. Bought a new starter and same deal. New and old one were for a 168 flexplate as they had the staggered mounting setup. Thinking I might have a 153 plate. Teeth on old starter and plate are a little messed up but not real bad. Question. Would a 168 type starter even work on a 153 tooth plate? Is it worth a try to get a 153 tooth type Straight across) starter. Can't really afford to have the newly rebuilt tranny pulled to replace the plate and don't even know what size it is. Old and broke by the beach here. you can see details in link below.

Re: Starter Dilemma 350 crate /700r4
 

153 tooth flexplate is like an inch smaller in diameter. Wouldn't even be close.

Re: Starter Dilemma 350 crate /700r4
 

my new starter worked for either a 168 or 153.

i want to say it was the Summit Racing brand high torque starter...maybe even mini starter.

this is the one
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...mc?prefilter=1

Re: Starter Dilemma 350 crate /700r4
 

Notice that starter has multiple sets of bolt holes for different size starters.

Re: Starter Dilemma 350 crate /700r4
 

Thanks for replies. Getting the idea that i have a 168 flywheel with a 168 starter and a bad flexplate. Another $300 to install a $30 part is making me beyond insane. Neither the "restorer" or the Tranny shop said a word. Heads up

Re: Starter Dilemma 350 crate /700r4
 

Could be a simple as the installer not shimming the starter to properly space the starter gear to the flexplate. Especially since a new motor is involved.

Since sometimes you are getting nothing happening, wouldn't hurt to check/replace your battery cables and ignition switch/wire. Could be the installation of the new motor generated the last bend for one or more cables/wires.

Re: Starter Dilemma 350 crate /700r4
 

Latest install we tried shims and spacing looks good. Flex plate and old starter have visible damage to gears.

Probably something as simple as the original pot head, brain addled "i'm the greatest mechanic ever" guy who did the work. Blinded by dope and incapable of seeing the damage and disclosing it. Imagine your doctor on pot. Probably would say "hey its legal and i feel like the greatest surgeon ever so i must be - its your fault you died".

Re: Starter Dilemma 350 crate /700r4
 

I've destroyed the flex plate in my truck. After I rebuilt the top end about 3 years ago, I started noticing the hot start issue. Only 1 place carried a replacement starter in the area, so that's what I used. Forget who made it, but it wasn't a Delco. I had to reshim that thing every 6 months. Last spring it got to the point I couldn't start the truck. Looked into it, bad teeth on the flexplate, cracked starter housing.

Did a bunch of research.
#1 - Use the right bolts. These are knurled at the top. Unfortunately, the stock bolts are for a 3/8" (0.375") starter hole, and most replacement starters have a 10mm (0.393") hole, so it doesn't hold it in place as well as it should.
#2 - Use the proper torque spec. Want to say it is 38 ft/lb.
#3 - Use a starter brace. Not sure how many were installed from the factory, or how many factory ones were thrown away.

I installed a new flexplate, AC Delco starter, and starter brace. Spent a while shimming it to get it right. It starts better than ever and the starter is very quiet. I tried to find new bolts, there are some designed for the 10mm holes, but I didn't see ones in the length I needed.

I have a 6 gauge ground run directly to the back of the starter where it connects to the brace. This certainly helped a bit.

I'm almost surprised they don't make the starter gear out of slightly weaker metal, so they starter wears and not the flex plate. I can get a new starter for <$50 and replace it in an hour or less. A flex plate takes quite a bit longer to replace.

Re: Starter Dilemma 350 crate /700r4
 

Low power to the starter will kill parts all day long. You need good grounds on the motor and lots of time all new paint really limits the ground. Clean all the paint from were your grounds hook up and use star washers on all the connections. I ground the battery right to the head. Then ground the motor to the frame and another ground from the battery to the core support. I also like to run the starter solenoid off a relay. I run a #10 wire off the starter lug to the relay and a #10 back to the solenoid. The trigger the solenoid with the little wire that chevy uses for the starter. This cures the issue of not enough current to get the bendix to fully engage and hold while starting the engine. Stared to do this with the race cars in the 80's and have done it on a lot of other stuff to cure just what yous is doing.
Jimmy