1955-57 frame swap
hi guys i was wondering what kind of job it is to swap an s10 frame and install it under a 55-57 chev shortbox what kind of s10 do i need shortbox longbox any help on this issue would be great thank you so much
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Re: 1955-57 frame swap
s-10 is not the best for a TF truck. They work good on a AD truck. Most guys clip the TF truck with a 70-81 camaro or the like, or put a IFS kit to the OEM frame.
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Re: 1955-57 frame swap
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Re: 1955-57 frame swap
Someone smarter than me may correct this but this should get you in the ball park.
AD= Advanced Design (first series) - Chevy trucks from 1947 to the middle of 1955 TF=Task Force (second series) - Chevy trucks from the rest of 1955 to 1959 No stupid questions. Ask as much as you like. It's the only way our hobby continues to live! |
Re: 1955-57 frame swap
AD stands for Advanced Design, the body style from the late 40s to early 1955. TF stands for Task Force and is the body style from 1955 (late) to 1959.
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Re: 1955-57 frame swap
Thanks guys, now I know.
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Re: 1955-57 frame swap
Well you started out talkin bout a TF 55 -57 truck now you say it's a 48. I'm confused.
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Re: 1955-57 frame swap
different posters bd
the best frame for your truck is the one chevrolet built it on best for cost, best for time and easiest to work with. you can modify the dookie out of it and still have less time, money and effort in your build i've learned much over the years and one thing learned: most frame swaps never get done they end up sitting in the shop, on craigslist or on ebay. yes a lot get done, many on this site are done. but most of them will languish for years and then get sold :( |
Re: 1955-57 frame swap
I'm curious to know too what the best late model chassis would be idea for a TF truck.
I've got the truck.. but it doesn't have the frame any more. (Cab, box and clip) |
Re: 1955-57 frame swap
imo, unless you have $10k for a custom frame, the best start is a stock frame.
stock frame is simple and stout. easy to modify to your hearts desire with minimal fabrication. |
Re: 1955-57 frame swap
does anyone know if you can you a 1966 chevy truck frame instead of the stock 55-57 frame
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I'm still on the line of thinking that getting a good stock 1/2 ton short bed frame and then putting on independent front suspension and rear axle and suspension of choice works a lot better and makes a better truck when it's all said and done. The S-10 frame does work under the AD trucks fairly well and so many AD trucks have frames that are either rusted out, damaged by hauling way more then they were ever intended to haul or hacked up so bad years ago for engine swaps (I have one cab off a frame like that out in my barn) but I still can't see pulling a good undamaged frame out from under one of them and swapping in an S-10 frame just because it's what "everyone else" is doing. The going cost of a dead S-10 long bed around here is now up around 500 and add another 3 or 4 hundred for pieces to rebuild the worn out front suspension and you are getting close to what the basic MII kits. |
Re: 1955-57 frame swap
im currently building a 56 "cameo" and opted to use a 72 c10 frame, its turned out to be a fairly easy swap just took a little engineering but you really just need to install the bed (which practically bolts on) and then that will dictate where the cab needs to be, also the parts are plentiful for the 67-72 c10 truck frames..
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf8044d96.jpg http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps20e8bc49.jpg |
Re: 1955-57 frame swap
Find a stock frame and modify it, that is the best choice for your truck.
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Here is another frame swap. The build used a 2003 Silverado chassis with the Duramax diesel / Allison transmission http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...ps827b718f.jpg |
Re: 1955-57 frame swap
Love the extended can!
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Re: 1955-57 frame swap
Actually you spend your work one way or the other either doing a frame swap or suspension swap as neither is a simple bolt on operation.
Having been involved in several subframe swaps, they always include a lot more fitting and fussing with the front end sheet metal than the actual fitting and welding of the subframe. Frame swaps require fitting the Cab, nose and bed to the frame, Subframe swaps require fitting the nose to the subframe and crossmember swaps usually call for some trimming of the inner fender panels to clear. There really isn't any free lunch with any of them. If you want a low truck with big rims tucked up inside the fenders the frame swap isn't going to work too well with most of the popular rims for these trucks. Both the trucks akdg87 and 57Toybox showed sit up stock height or a tad heigher and don't have deep rims on them. Both look great the way they sit too. If I had a good stock frame I'd still go with it but with no frame or a frame that is damaged beyond reasonable repair a frame swap makes a lot of sense. |
Re: 1955-57 frame swap
I have a 55.2 suburban on a 71 C10 frame. I am going back to an original frame although going to install crossmember and brackets for a C4 corvette suspension all the way around.
My 58 truck has a grafted 71 C10 frame in front and it sits really low although I am restricted to wheel depth due to the track width. You can see pics of it in my build thread I think they are on page 2 or 3. Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: 1955-57 frame swap
Well said Mr48Chev
I agree hole heartedly |
Re: 1955-57 frame swap
How about a kit to use a 73-87 c10 frame http://www.e-zchassisswaps.com/kit.php?category=5
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Re: 1955-57 frame swap
didnt want to be a thread hijacker but this may help the OP figure out what he wants to do
thanks, it fits awesome, the rear wheels tucked when i dropped it 5" (265/55R20), without having to tub it. the fronts dont tuck but they are flush with the fender. Those pictures were prior to drop springs and spindles. the picture below is with one coil cut from the springs and that gave me about 2.5" of drop, i think im going to run just a 1" drop spring on the front and see how that does.. http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7f254c05.jpg |
Re: 1955-57 frame swap
akdg, it looks like your wheels are out too far.
pull your springs out and drop your suspension all the way down. and then do it again with the wheels turned. it looks to me like your going to tear the fenders out. |
Re: 1955-57 frame swap
In late but I am in the stock frame with mods camp. S10 is too narrow, you need to run adaptors to space the wheels out. Later frames are wider track which is ok IF you do not mind the higher stance. Also some have wider frame width which affects the step area and higher back kick up which affects the bed floor height. If you are wanting to keep it high and dry or 4wd not issues. If you want it low or in the weeds then go stock, get an after market front IFS kit and rear 4 link. You can get moderate lowering and keep the stock front and rear axles too.
All of the above are outlined in the build thread sections. When looking check the build dates and times. Some are guys working alone, some are shops with the resources to finish quickly. some look easy, but have 3 months between posts with little detail. Some like me just plod along posting lots of detail hoping to help others and to help my feeble mind keep track of what I have done (yes I do go back thru my own thread as a reminder!(. I also agree that a lot of started projects become someone elses great deal if you do not have the time, resources, patience and understanding spouse to complete it in a timely manner. Choose what fits your end vision and level of expertise then dive in. Good luck and have fun. |
Re: 1955-57 frame swap
I would suggest you look at a 58 fleetside being built by a guy in Mobile using a Chevy Trailblazer frame. He has been very detailed about the frame swap, and the truck looks good. The project has been on hold for a time while he builds a new home. I think this is the link: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ghlight=ricott
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