Factory Body Shimming
 

I am looking for the factory picture and description of what positions to shim the body mounts to get the gaps correct. Thanks

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

From the factory assembly manual...
Attachment 1566852

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

thanks thats perfect!

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

Very nice.

It's "as required", to account for build variation in the frame and body in white, as time goes on.

K

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

A guy on FB had an issue..... when he removed the top, the doors hit at the rear...turns out that the body mounts were replaced with the top on and the shims weren't reinstalled....he said the rocker boxes were in good shape too.

When the top came off the body drooped slightly...I think that whenever the mounts were replaced and the bolts tightened....it put the body in a slight bind that manifested itself when the top came off..



not sure of the color though..I don't think it was white...?;)


Also, OP...I assume your rocker boxes are good..?

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

I had "as required" in quotes, because it was a bit of a misnomer.

What we used to do for fender shims is tape a packet together, like 3 shims, and we would run those all day whether the truck we were currently building needed it or not.

Eventually the final repair supervisor would call back and say something encouraging, like "SEYMORE!! YOU IDIOT!! WTH ARE YOU THINKING?!?! ALL THESE FENDERS ARE RUNNING HIGH!! ARE YOU EVEN LOOKING AT THESE TRUCKS?!? TAKE A SHIM OUT BEFORE I COME BACK THERE AND SHOW YOU HOW TO DO THIS!!" I can just imagine the spittle flying into the phone mouthpiece.

So we would start running a new shim pack, like 2 shims, until he called again with his latest observation.

Basically it was to address "macro trends". You had about 45 seconds to complete the truck in front of you and move to the next one; that's not enough time to fit and re-fit each individual truck.

K

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

I always wondered how the assembly line managed to get them as close as they did..... knowing that there was so little time to do so....that method makes sense...but where did the final fit take place...final repair?

I know that fit and finish on trucks, back then, wasn't as much of a priority as it is now days...'cause after all, it was "truck"....not a mall crawler...

Good info K...!

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

Great forum. Got all the body mounts replaced today.

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

sweet....let's see some pics......;)

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

Had to tip Old Blue up so I could wash out all the grinding dust from grinding the welded heads off. So much quieter over the bumps now!

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

Nice.....how much did you shim...?

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

Put back in the 2 factory shims at #1 spot both sides then added 1 at #1 passenger side and 1 at #2 passenger side.

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

I worked at GM dealership body shops from 1974 to 1982. We did a lot of realignment if someone complained about gaps or panel alignment. The pickup doors were the hardest to get to fit the openings right. Fenders and hoods had lots of adjustment.

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

Yes - this technique would get you close on the majority of vehicles.

There was a repair station at the end of my area. There was also a short moving repair line (two, actually) at the end of final line. If they could fix them there while on the move then they would; otherwise it would be out to a stationary repair stall in "heavy repair" for the really bad ones.

I should add that some of the repairs did not consist of removing the bolt or adding/deleting shims. Often the repair consisted of bending, twisting or hammering while the line was moving.

K

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

Now that I could have guessed......doing that job day in and day out...day after day.....a line worker would soon learn exactly where to place a hammer strike.......

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

Didn't know if I could jump on this one for some advice. I planning on some winter work on mine, but I'm impatient and started pulling some stuff off. What I was wondering if I should work on the gaps before I take it apart or just mess with the gaps after new rockers and floor pan,cab supports. Thanks Bill

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

Definitely after.........welding and new metal will change everything to a certain degree.........

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

Thanks for the help. Disassembly will continue.

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

I disagree if it doesn't line up before replacing parts it may be worse after. I would get it all aligned up and fitting as you want it and keep checking as you weld in the new panels. You need to fit the rockers to the door with the doors fitting the body.

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

The gaps aren't that great now which is why I was questioning it. What do you think about putting the factory shim count back in,right now the passenger side has 4 in the #2 spot and 2 in the #1 spot. The driver side has 1in the #1 spot and 2 in the #2 spot. I guess that would probably be a good place to start.

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

It's hard to line up rusted out and missing sheet metal......

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

If it is that bad you bolt the doors on prop the body till they fit and weld bars inside to hold it in place then start replacing metal. To just start welding parts on without having the panels where they belong is asking for trouble.

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

Is the hardtop on...?

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

Yes the top is still on . The metal there isn't horrible could have driven it the way it is. Rocker boxes in tact, some 1" holes in the rocker.

Re: Factory Body Shimming
 

Then I would think you could start replacing the rockers and floor. Like CapeCodder says keep everything aligned as you go....then there shouldn't be much shimming to get the gaps adjusted.