Polyester Primer Question
 

Giving my '70 Chevy C10 a full repaint, int and ext.

I'm using Eastwood's Contour Polyester Primer-Surfacer. Mostly over sanded OEM paint, but a few small spots of bondo and bare metal and a few new parts (hood, front fenders, tail gate) .
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-co...-surfacer.html

I used 2 gallons of primer, 2.5 tip, 20oz primer, 1oz hardener, 3 oz acetone, 80 degrees, 15% humidity. Sprayed on nice. But, I ran out of primer before giving everything its first coat.

2 questions
a. will it hurt to give panels their second coat a week after the first coat dried?

b. should I sand the first coat before applying the second coat of primer?

Re: Polyester Primer Question
 

Read the product sheet on the re-coat window. I believe you'll have to scuff it. Being high build, I'd block what I shot then add a second coat.

(I just read the data on your link & could not find anything on re-coat window.)

Re: Polyester Primer Question
 

agreed..scuff it ...wont hurt a thing and you may find something you need to fix while your at it...........id use red scotchbrite for scuffing... I didn't use eastwood but what I used said 4-6 hrs before scuffing

Re: Polyester Primer Question
 

Polyester "primer" is nothing more than spray on body filler. The longer it sits, the harder it'll get. You should sand it with sandpaper ASAP... as B.W. suggests ... grit is on the Tech Data Sheet. It certainly needs to be sanded before a second coat is applied.

http://www.evercoat.com/images/ePIM/...5.2016-ENG.pdf

In part, it says...

All bare metals must be treated with a high quality epoxy primer prior to the
application of Feather Fill --- did you apply epoxy primer to bare metal areas?

Body Filler or Putty
 Finish sanding body filler or putty with 180-220 grit sandpaper
 Featheredge with 320 grit sandpaper


I'm not a fan of this kind of product because it's terribly hard to sand and doesn't negate the need for high build urethane primer. Some panels are so far from straight than folks will use spray on body filler as a last resort to getting them straight... but this is a last resort on large panels only... doors and other small areas can be smeared with regular style body filler easier.

High build urethane primer is designed to sand easy and is a far easier product to spray and work with than any spray on body filler. I'd recommend discontinuing the use of the spray on body filler and instead use a urethane high build primer... unless you are desperate to straighten a large panel.

Re: Polyester Primer Question
 

Thanks for both of your replies.

I'm using Eastwood's polyester filler. They told me it works well on bare metal, no epoxy primer needed. They recommended it for a full prime and also recommended no sealer since it'll be ready for base coat once sanded to 400 grit.

What they don't mention is sanding between coats or impact to waiting between coats.

Re: Polyester Primer Question
 

Mosel, you really need to click this link and read the information contained therein. If you want to take the poor advice of someone on the phone go ahead. If you don't want to read the tech data contained in the link I provided below, that's your choice.

Good luck with your project.

https://www.eastwood.com/featherfill...YaAoVVEALw_wcB

Re: Polyester Primer Question
 

For what its worth....

I used Eastwood's black epoxy primer, then covered with a gray high build primer. As a beginner in body work and painting, the contrasting colors helped me with block sanding to find the high's and low's so that was really helpful.