D44 Balljoint opinions
 

So I’m getting close to being done with my lift install and I had my differentials rebuilt. The one thing I left for myself was the ball joints. I’ve done some research and there are a lot of different opinions on quality. I have a set of spicers I bought from Summit. Most people say they are great others say they don’t last. I have also looked at Dynatrac rebuildable ball joints but it looks like they are for newer Jeep 44s. I am unsure if they fit my application as they don’t list it. I honestly would pay the premium for them but I may have to call to see if they fit. I will probably not wheel my Blazer but I do want a quality long lasting ball joint. What is the experience for just normal driving? The spicers I have are smooth and not knurled like the Moog brand that seem to be garbage now days.

Re: D44 Balljoint opinions
 

I install ball joints almost daily at my shop. I do not deviate from spicer for anything with 35s or under. They are perfect for that.
No wheelin on 37s and they are good too. As a shop rule we do not install moog. Especially ball joints.
The jk has a different part number but I dont know what is different about them.

Re: D44 Balljoint opinions
 

I haven’t been able to figure out the difference either on the Jeep setup. I have the spicer ball joints and they seem fine. I will probably install them as soon as I get my knuckles cleaned up. I don’t plan do much if any off-roading and at most will have 33s or 34 inch tires. Mostly just for cruising and fun.

Re: D44 Balljoint opinions
 

Just curious why you have a issue with moog? I always hated them because the grease fighting holes were never tapped right and had to fight to get them in also remember getting the boots to sit properly was a issue.

Did buy a moog idler for my 1990 that's outlasted everything else though

Re: D44 Balljoint opinions
 

Because I will have to do them for free next time.

Re: D44 Balljoint opinions
 

My experience with moogs is they wear out fast

Re: D44 Balljoint opinions
 

The Moog are gnarled and are larger than the original from what I have seen online. I don’t have a mic or I would measure them. Maybe I’ll grab one off amazon. I bought a set before buying the spicer and didn’t want this but haven’t returned them yet. I’m not sure why they don’t offer a smooth housing honestly. From research people say it is because the knuckles can enlarge. Just seems odd since You can buy new knuckles. Everyone says once you use the moog it enlarges the bore and you cannot go back to smooth balljoints.

Re: D44 Balljoint opinions
 

I have been using AC Delco lately (3 seasons). It says Made in USA on the box. They look just like Moog, gold color, blue boot.
I like the fact that they are greasable, so if any contaminants get in I can flush em out. One draw back is that you have to remove the axle shaft to grease the upper ball joint.
I have used the Spicers too with no complaints except that they are not greasable. When i finally did have to replace them, they were not sloppy. They were seized up from water infiltration.

So i guess it depends on what your doing with your truck. If it doesn't see mud and water ..Spicer. If it does....AC Delco/Moog.

Re: D44 Balljoint opinions
 

Are the AC Delco knurled? This was my turn off with the Moog brand. They were not gold and had a black boot. They also were U S made. Not sure on the spicer but most other parts I have from them are U S made.

Re: D44 Balljoint opinions
 

Yes, the AC Delco ball joints had a strait knurl. I didnt see a draw back to having it. I removed a knurled one, and put a knurled one in....both were nice and tight.
I think there are 2 grades of Moog ball joints. Black boot and blue boot.
I got my AC Delco joints at rockauto.

Re: D44 Balljoint opinions
 

I haven’t heard anything bad necessarily about the knurlig, but mine had the stock smooth bore and I wanted to keep it. I know people have mentioned once you press the knurled ones in you have to use the same next time.
So I have installed the Spicer BJs and they went in no issue. The following sequence was used to torque them. 70ft lbs on the bottom nut. I used my jack to put tension on the knuckle to get it tight. Next was the sleeve to 70 then the castle nut to 100. I’ve seen 50 on the sleeve but I used the directions in the link below. The knuckles are not binding and seem smooth. I will be getting a fish scale to test them but it doesn’t feel like more than 25lbs when I turn them.

I lost the three nuts for the steering arm on the knuckle. I’ll have to figure out who sells them.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billa...Balljoints.pdf