TIG weld stainless exhaust purge
So getting close to a point where I will need to build my stainless exhaust.
I dont really have a way to easily setup a purge. Since its not structural - If I tig without a purge - any issues ? Thoughts ? This thread says --- yES .... NO ..... lol https://weldingweb.com/showthread.ph...out-back-purge |
Re: TIG weld stainless exhaust purge
Back when I was working, if it was a certified sanitary piping system as used for dairy or pharmaceutical applications it was purged. Otherwise every other general use weldment was tig welded without worrying about the inside of the piece.
I wouldn't worry about it. |
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We have miles and miles of piping at work....every piece is purged while welding...on stainless it will "sugar" on the inside if not purged...may not matter on exhaust
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Thx mongocanfly ....
I havent welded much stainless ...... but the stainless I have joined I do see the sugaring .... but figured on the 3" exhuast going out --- should be strong enough with the amount of weld to hold up ...... just wanted to see if there was a consensus .... seems most guys in trade say backpurge and do it right ...... but most guys how just hobby say they have had no problems for just exhaust ..... |
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I did the maintenance purchasing in a fruit juice/apple sauce plant that every sanitary stainless tube weld was purged. The guys doing the welding and the outside contractor's welders had plugs to plug the ends of the tubes with one plug having a hole for the hose to connect to.
I'd say that both Gippetto and Mongocanfly will say that it is far more to prevent contamination of the product that the line carries than appearance. Sanitary stainless welders (the people) lay down some of the prettiest welds you will ever lay eyes on though. |
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IMO:: If your gonna go to the expense to use Stainless, do it right..
A brass y at the bottle, little bit of hose, roll of tape, bam your done.. JT From SC |
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As a retired millwright/welder in a brewery.....when welding stainless that product went through it was purged, If it was for other then human consumption, it was not purged. Nobody sees the inside of exhaust pipe and the strength of the weld is not effected. Extra effort is often wasted effort.
Just my humble opinion.... |
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I just finished mine. I did it in 409 stainless not 304. I did not purge it at all. Almost no sugaring inside ( you won’t see it anyways) I did my research like you. You do need a tri gas( not cheap) if you are doing it in 304. All the supply shops would have to order it for they did not have it at hand. I was happy with the 409 ss , should last 20 years probably more for most of us do not use as a daily driver. 304 ss should have been about $500 more. But it all depends on you on which route you want to go. Don’t get me wrong I love 304 ss . But I put the extra $500 to other things for the truck. Hope this helps
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Re: TIG weld stainless exhaust purge
I build dry ice manufacturing plants. Almost all the piping is stainless. Some up to 3' in diameter. It is not practical to back purge such a large pipe. I will have as many as 30 TIG welders on site at a time. They all use Solar flux on the inside of the weld. It's not super expensive and goes a long way.
https://www.amazon.com/Harris-S0FB01...Sn5QhoCH8EQAvD |
Re: TIG weld stainless exhaust purge
you do not need trigas to tig 304 ss. I use straight argon wit a cerrated tungsten and it works fine. I do not purge its too much hassle and the sugaring is minimal if your fit up is good. fit up in the joints is much more important. I have done quite a few ss exhausts in streetrods. a compression bender puts more restriction in the pipe than not purging.
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Always use a as brush designated just for SS. If you use it on carbon steel then on ss it will rust because it will deposit carbon on the surface. I will second a good fit and straight argon. Also I brush my tacks and weld while it is hot, it shines much easier. Keep a sharp tunston and clean surface with flapper wheel or wire wheel and the weld will flow much better. Purge is not needed for exhaust, yes it will sugar, but not necessary. The sanitary tubing (.065 wall I think) is only washed together, no rod needed with a perfect fit. If you have a gap on one side, more than likely it will pull to that side after welded. Here are a couple pics of 2" sanitary tubing I welded up last week and just hand brushed right after welded. Good luck
Mac |
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Nice setup. I wont be able to run twin tubes at least down each side. Ill either have to cross over behind trans and join tpo a single pipe ..... or run both down the drivers side. Any thoughts on that ? |
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How about running the pipes along the underside of the running boards....like lake pipes and dump in front of back wheels. depends on ground clearance of coarse.
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I think ground clearance should be ok unless I bottom out hard ... fuel tank is lowest point currently ... but still well above bottom of rims without tires ... I'll find a pic .... Be mostly concerned about noise. When I start it up with just the short headers on - sounds like a bomb. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...pipes.1100132/ Wonder if t hat would help ..... #post6. |
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Dont have a great pic from backside ...... but this will give an idea
https://i.imgur.com/uPW0Yhjl.jpg |
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Was just planning on buying 3" straight and mandrel bend SS on ebay :) Cheaper than anywhere locally. |
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