The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network - View Single Post - 1969 SuperBurb build-up (Bagged and Blown!)

shifty · 04-18-2007, 12:48 AM

PS -
I believe the truck engines actually have a fuel pressure regulator built into the rail - I had a discussion about this with someone here at the forum recently, but I forgot what years this is true with (2003+?) in the trucks. On the truck intakes (might be specific years) if there are both the feed and return lines on the fuel rail, then there is no need for a fuel pressure regulator because its already built in to the fuel rail itself.

I've been pretty religiously taking pics of the swap, and trying to keep them in my signature everywhere so I don't get 50 requests a week for pics of crap

I ran the cats for two reasons: a) open headers are too noisy and b) i didn't want to delete my rear O2 sensors (i want all 4 to benefit in the MPG dept.). They'll stay until I figure out something creative for exhaust.

With the ECE mounts and 98 f-body headers, I didn't need to cut the frame - the fitment is like ... so perfect, that it was like it was absolutely meant to be. They are not the prettiest things in the world, but man, ... it's like marrying a chick with a hot body and an ugly face, y'know?

A/C is the last thing on my mind right now. I keep the truck in covered parking all the time, so it shouldn't be too necessary. Weather up here is nothing like what I had down in Gainesville (damned swamp!) or any other place in FL I'd lived over half my life, so ...

Kids love me. I love dogs.

As for the fuel pressure gauge - before you fire up, you need to obviously setup the fuel pump relay and kick the key forward, make sure you have 50psi to the rail (hence the gauge on the rail), and while it's pressurized, check all of your fittings for leaks. This is a good reason to think long and hard about where your fittings will be. I found one at the S&P fitting for the line coming out of the FPR/Filter, tightened it down, but still get a little leak, so I guess I need to remove and teflon tape

Anyway, on the topic of safe in-the-cab solutions, read this - someone at LS1tech shared it with me:

http://www.thirdgen.org/fuelgauge

Read on for more info.

Part numbers I used and sources are here:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...9&page=1&pp=20

Hope that helps, bud

04-18-2007, 12:48 AM	#250
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,376	Re: 1969 Burb build-up (Bags, 5.3/4L60E, repaint, interior....) PS - I believe the truck engines actually have a fuel pressure regulator built into the rail - I had a discussion about this with someone here at the forum recently, but I forgot what years this is true with (2003+?) in the trucks. On the truck intakes (might be specific years) if there are both the feed and return lines on the fuel rail, then there is no need for a fuel pressure regulator because its already built in to the fuel rail itself. I've been pretty religiously taking pics of the swap, and trying to keep them in my signature everywhere so I don't get 50 requests a week for pics of crap I ran the cats for two reasons: a) open headers are too noisy and b) i didn't want to delete my rear O2 sensors (i want all 4 to benefit in the MPG dept.). They'll stay until I figure out something creative for exhaust. With the ECE mounts and 98 f-body headers, I didn't need to cut the frame - the fitment is like ... so perfect, that it was like it was absolutely meant to be. They are not the prettiest things in the world, but man, ... it's like marrying a chick with a hot body and an ugly face, y'know? A/C is the last thing on my mind right now. I keep the truck in covered parking all the time, so it shouldn't be too necessary. Weather up here is nothing like what I had down in Gainesville (damned swamp!) or any other place in FL I'd lived over half my life, so ... Kids love me. I love dogs. As for the fuel pressure gauge - before you fire up, you need to obviously setup the fuel pump relay and kick the key forward, make sure you have 50psi to the rail (hence the gauge on the rail), and while it's pressurized, check all of your fittings for leaks. This is a good reason to think long and hard about where your fittings will be. I found one at the S&P fitting for the line coming out of the FPR/Filter, tightened it down, but still get a little leak, so I guess I need to remove and teflon tape Anyway, on the topic of safe in-the-cab solutions, read this - someone at LS1tech shared it with me: http://www.thirdgen.org/fuelgauge Read on for more info. Part numbers I used and sources are here: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...9&page=1&pp=20 Hope that helps, bud __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. Last edited by shifty; 04-18-2007 at 12:49 AM.