Quote:
Originally Posted by nuke1
i have not checked up on you in a while kevin, the burb is looking great, that is using your nogin and creating as much room as you possibly can still, i like it, just out of curiosity, how much did the front and rear suspensions set you back if you do not mind me askin, thanks.
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I got a good deal on the rear being it is a Dana 44 and not the normal 36 but still set me back $1500 Normally around 2k and the front was $600. Now keep in mind the front still needs $1400 worth of DropMember and $700 worth of shock waves. The rear will need about $600-$1000 in links, bags, shocks and misc parts plus what ever it cost to get that diff cover Mag surfaced so it is good and flat. So by no means is it a cheap or even affordable way to go but that is what LowBuck was for, now it's time to play!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Puropedo
Kevin, did u flush the gas tank before any welding? I have heard that u got to take precautions before doing welding on tanks that had being used. As usual, u are doing a kick ass job on your hoe, Im starting to pay more attention now, since this is where the 5.3 efi conversion begins ( my dream mod for my truck ) anyways, I hope that u keep showing pictures and descriptions of your project, keep up the bad ass custom/fab work!  |
Yes you always need to be extremely careful. This tank sat out side for years with some gas and water in side of it. So first thing I did was checked the inside with a small flashlight and saw their was no rust at all so I knew it was a good start. Then I poured out the fluid into a bucket and checked to see if it would light, it would not even try. Then I added some out eater to the tank, sloshed it around and washed it out for about 5 min. Now I felt same it was evacuated of fumes but I was still care full and with the sender off and all tubes open I took my torch and from a distance passed the flame over the opening, nothing so I tipped the flame into the tank and was good to go.
Now the proper way to to have it boiled out by a radiator shop but this worked well for me. I then made my cuts, capped off one corner, moved the filler neck, capped the old one and de-bured my last corner and then cleaned it out through the last hole using my arm and a scotch brite pad and more oil eater. I then flushed it out with high psi water, air then welded my last corner. Then I plugged all holes and added 6psi of air and checked it with soapy water and only had one pin hole leak right under the bend of the filler so I tigged over that spot and it is air tight. I will add some tank sealer to the inside to seal over the welds and prevent rust down the road but all in all I am happy with the results. I paid $65 for the tank, $80 for a new EFI sending unit, and the pump is $120 for the right one to run my 5.3 Vortec plus a can of sealer say $20. So $285 I got a 25 gal EFI ready in tank pump custom fit tank!
Kevin
LFD Inc.