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Old 05-06-2009, 10:43 PM   #3
berencam
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: branson mo
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Re: Alternator Internal regulator convertion

Quote:
Originally Posted by VetteVet View Post
I quoted you so I could answer your questions better.
How do you know that the alt is not charging? Have you measured the output with a voltmeter at the positive and negative battery terminals? You may have a bad battery.

The large red wire goes to a threeway connection with two other wires one of which goes back to the battery. In conversions this wire can be run to the battery directly or to the large terminal on the solenoid.

The small terminals on top of the alternator are used to charge the fields in the alternator and to turn on the regulator inside the alternator and tell it what amperage to charge. If you have the alternator mounted on the drivers side of the engine then the terminal next to the engine is the field wire. This wire needs to be connected to any 12 volt source from the battery. It can be hot or keyed hot. Some guys just run a jumper from the post on the back of the alternator to this terminal. See----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=119379 It is better to wire it from the fuse panel for a more accurate voltage sensing of the electrical system, but it will still work.

The other wire is the sensing wire from the old external regulator, which was a blue wire, which was an extension of the brown wire to the regulator which came from the charging light in the dash, or from the ignition switch if you have an ammeter in the dash. If you have the seven gauge dash with the ammeter then you will need to install a resister in the brown wire before it hooks to the alternator. The alternator needs to see this resistance to avoid blowing the internal diodes in the regulator. If you have the idiot light then the light filament supplies the resistance.Below is a diagram of the original wiring showing the red wire connections and the blue,brown and white wires on the external regulator.

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thats exactly what i need, i am getting 13.4v at the battery when the engine is running. also if i remove the pos cable from the battery when i am running the truck shuts off. It is wired as you have explained with the exception of the last wire. it does go into the cab, but then i loose it. I have an after market gauge inside it. So basically that last wire needs to go from ignition fused to ammeter, from ammeter to a resistor, from resistor to alternator? What resistor?
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