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rhodog77 · 10-25-2009, 09:32 PM

50gmc,

Thanks for the encouragment, I appreciate the vote of confidence, sometimes it really keeps the build moving forward. This is my first frame off "custom", so Im a rookie at this, like so many of us on this forum. Thanks again for those who have subscribed and given advice/tips!!!

First, gettting the motor in wasn't as nearly bad as I thought it would be. Here some advice though. DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT buy any s10 v8 motor swap kit. I bought a kit from s10v8.com, and it was awesome. Great engineering, finish and detail. The kit is designed to mount a SB in an s10, and it did very nicely. However, it only works if your running an s10 body, DUUUUUHHHH!!! I never put 2 and 2 together. It moves the SB motor forward three inches to fit in the s10 engine bay. As many of you know, in th AD trucks, the motor needs to be back 3 inches. So, with that said, make you own engine mounts and save the $100.00. The pix of the engine pads on my photobucket account were the ones from the kit, bolted in the stock locations. Let me say again, they will not work in the AD trucks.

jeffs51chevy, once again, has helped out a bunch by sending me some pix of his engine mount design. Its the way to go if you ask me. Pretty simple, remove the s10 stock motor mounts and weld or bolt 1/4 steel plate directly on the crossmember where the old mounts were. You can then either weld new engine pads ($7.99 at autozone) to the plate or drill some slotted holes for more adjustment sake and bolt them in, simple preference. I ended up set the motor back about 2 3/4 inches. Watch your clearance of the motor/accessories to the engine crossmember, especially your fuel pump if your running the 350. I depressed my crossmember in about a 1/2 for a little extra room.

As for the trans member. Im not sure why everyone is fabbing. A little hacking on the stock one and it will work. I moved mine back about 5 or 6 inches, forget what the exact measurement was. Its about as far back as you can go and still fit ontop of the drivers side frame slot.

Hope this helps.
brian

10-25-2009, 09:32 PM	#43
rhodog77 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Burlington, KY USA Posts: 338	Re: '50 5 window.....s10 swap 50gmc, Thanks for the encouragment, I appreciate the vote of confidence, sometimes it really keeps the build moving forward. This is my first frame off "custom", so Im a rookie at this, like so many of us on this forum. Thanks again for those who have subscribed and given advice/tips!!! First, gettting the motor in wasn't as nearly bad as I thought it would be. Here some advice though. DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT buy any s10 v8 motor swap kit. I bought a kit from s10v8.com, and it was awesome. Great engineering, finish and detail. The kit is designed to mount a SB in an s10, and it did very nicely. However, it only works if your running an s10 body, DUUUUUHHHH!!! I never put 2 and 2 together. It moves the SB motor forward three inches to fit in the s10 engine bay. As many of you know, in th AD trucks, the motor needs to be back 3 inches. So, with that said, make you own engine mounts and save the $100.00. The pix of the engine pads on my photobucket account were the ones from the kit, bolted in the stock locations. Let me say again, they will not work in the AD trucks. jeffs51chevy, once again, has helped out a bunch by sending me some pix of his engine mount design. Its the way to go if you ask me. Pretty simple, remove the s10 stock motor mounts and weld or bolt 1/4 steel plate directly on the crossmember where the old mounts were. You can then either weld new engine pads ($7.99 at autozone) to the plate or drill some slotted holes for more adjustment sake and bolt them in, simple preference. I ended up set the motor back about 2 3/4 inches. Watch your clearance of the motor/accessories to the engine crossmember, especially your fuel pump if your running the 350. I depressed my crossmember in about a 1/2 for a little extra room. As for the trans member. Im not sure why everyone is fabbing. A little hacking on the stock one and it will work. I moved mine back about 5 or 6 inches, forget what the exact measurement was. Its about as far back as you can go and still fit ontop of the drivers side frame slot. Hope this helps. brian __________________ "Get Busy Living or Get Busy Dying" 1970 P10 Stepvan