Quote:
Originally Posted by cogorman
Your truck sure is looking nice man. What brand paint are you guys sprayng? Your finish looks good too. What gun and tip size did you use for your base and what for your clear? I've had good luck using my sata 3000 hvlp 1.3 for base and sata 3000 RP 1.4 for my clears. I used to use the same gun untill I painted an E4 ford fender and blended the door and on my door I had mett. flecks in my blend panel. Then I went to using seperate guns.
I have my bed and fenders stripped down, bodyworked and ready for primer, but I dont know which im going to go with yet. What did you do from bare metal? Did you etch prime and then use high build primer or did you epoxy and then build primer? Did you prep your primer out in 600 and just base on it or did you prep it in 320-400 and seal it before your base? Both ways will work, but I just wated your opinion of what you did and why before I do mine. I dont know what system would be better since they both work well. I do all insurance repairs and dont have a lot of experiance in all bare metal completes, so thats why I ask. all i do at work is spot repair, panels, blends, edging .. insurance jobs dont do complete strip and refinishes too often. Thanks man. When you baked it - did you let it flash for 10-15 before bake or did you go straight out and kick on the bake? Do you guys bake at 155 for 45min or? We just got our blowtherm booth and it seems if I come straight out aand kick on bake immediately i get some solvent pop issues, but if I wait 10-15 or 20 ... bake it everything is fine. The paint rep says to immediatly bake it so as to not trap solvents and we use SIKKENS, but I think it needs to flow out for 10-15 before bake. Let me know what works for you thanks.
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That is what our paint rep use to tell us to, but we always let it flash for about 20 minuts first to flow out, that was with SIKKENS to.