Thread: Make it handle
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Old 11-26-2010, 01:31 PM   #225
robnolimit
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Dandridge, Tn. USA
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Re: Make it handle

1. Do you have any info on the bar manufacturers? I would like to read about this chromoly swaybar.

2. PHARMD In response to a question and an article about budget handling. I was forwarded an article about suspension upgrades and the performance gains. The article compared a stock C-10 to the same truck upgraded with a host of suspension and brake parts, and compared the results. The parts installed were Dropped spindles and brakes, springs, shocks, P/B, front swaybar, and rear adj. panhard rod. Ohhhhh, and a set of 17" 55 series rubber to replace the old 15" 78 series rolling stock. WHOA!! we're not comparing apples to apples any more. Just keep that in mind. The big question is, how can you make it handle and drive on a budget? Easy.

Lets start with a stock truck, and a plan of dropping it about 3" ft, 4" rr. This mild aproach keeps it drivable, and on a budget. $519 gets you dropped spindles and disk brakes, you get two for one here, it's the smart way to go.It's up to you to decide if you need to rebuild the A-arms, if you do, check out "PST suspension", you can get a complete rebuild kit for about $280. Stock A-arms are fine. If your truck sits level now, the spring are fine. (we can all argue about spring fatigue later, but I'm right), Cut 1/2 coil off of the fronts and put them back in. In the rear, it's a matching of parts. Start by cutting the rivits off of the trailing arm mounts, and re-position them to move the mount holes up as far as you can on the crossmember. Bolt or weld them back in. This raises the anti-squat %, and helps out of the corner. Next use a 2" dropped spring, $99, and a 2" lowering block, $129. This combo rides better that a 4" spring, and since you saved money on the front springs, spend it here. Also the 4" drop will re-set the pinion angle change that happened when you raised the front mounts. If, you want, put urathane bushings in the trailing arms. $48. You MUST change to an adjustable panhard rod to center the axle, so get a LONG one, $129. Now, if your only going to buy one new swaybar, buy the REAR bar. $189, and use the stock front bar for now. In the articlce tha truck didn't get a rear bar, and you can see the understeer in the picts. Here's one everybody misses, buy a set of urathane cab mounts, $89. This leaves three things to do. Power brakes, it's easy to put a 73-87 booster/master on a earlier C-10, get a wrecking yard unit and go for it. Steering box. This is important, so run the stocker and save your money. Go with AGR or Lee. they aren't cheep, $430-$600, but they'r worth it. And last and VERY important SHOCKS. Run your old ones and save up if you have to. Here's a list of shocks in order - Monroe sensitrac - KYB - Doetsch tec Nitro - QA-1 single adjustable - Bilstien inertia valve - Romic single adj - any quality double adjustable shock, these will range from $40 bucks a shock (160) to $200+ per shock (800). So, if you add a hundred bucks for P/B, choose the AGR box, and DT shocks, that totals $2183. You can do this in steps, and if you watch E-Bay and Craigslist, even some specials here, you can do this for about $1750. So get to it, and let us know the results!!!

Last edited by robnolimit; 01-31-2011 at 06:54 PM.
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