[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

Hey Alan,
Anything above 16 volts & 1 amp should be more than enough the stop any flow. Just make sure the end with the strips are towards the alternator.
Danny

Thanks Danny. Just got to round up some wire and I can start making the gauge harness.

Originally Posted by allaboutchevelles

Hey Alan, Changing the subject a little but I was looking at your build thread and was checking out your work on the C10 bed. Im still learning all this metal work and body work as I do this for a hobby. I have been watching my uncle for years that does bodywork for a living. He attended a seminar and they were talking about not putting body filler on top of bare metal, that you should prime the metal with an etching primmer sealer then do your mud work on top of that. They said the body filler hardens and causes the metal to sweat and create rust under the filler. I see guys building high end cars on tv and magizines putting filler all over bare metal. Whats your thoughts on this. I have been using the dynalight filler from carquest. any thoughts on this subject will be appreciated.

I will let the manufacturer of the product tell you in the quote below.

Q. Can Evercoat fillers be applied over bare metal? Can they be applied over paint?
A. Our fillers are designed to work over bare, properly prepared substrates such as: steel, aluminum, galvanized, stainless steel, fiberglass, and SMC. Some people prefer applying an epoxy primer over bare substrates to enhance corrosion protection. Our products don’t need to be applied over an epoxy for corrosion protection as long as the bare surface area is clean and no surface rust or contamination is present. However, some auto manufacturers do require body technicians to coat the bare metal surface with an epoxy before applying fillers. If you are performing warranty work, you should consult the manufacturer of the automobile for the recommended procedure. Fillers and putties will normally work OK over properly sanded (80-180 grit) cured OEM paint. However, with so many different types of aftermarket paint available (lacquer, enamel, urethane, water-based). We recommend that all paint be removed where filler is to be applied.

I use Rage Extreme. Here is a link to more info on this product. I've been in the body shop for 15 years and have never experienced that problem with any products I've used. I was at one shop for 8.5 years and the current job for 7 years. Most of my repairs is over bare metal. I have never had a failure in the adhesion properties of any filler. I've used several types, but have been using rage Extreme for 8-10 years. There are too many factors that can affect a proper repair. i.e. location like close to the coast, humidity and of coarse the technicians practices to name a few. I just read the manufacturers recommendation and use my own experiences to do the best repair possible.