Installing Upper & Lower Control Arm shafts.
I'm going to go a bit overboard with the description and pictures of this process because it is a pain in the neck, I've seen several threads expressing frustration about it on the forum, and I couldn't find a good thread showing how to do it.
This is the first time I've done it, so I don't have any special experience or knowledge. I just know that I didn't get it right on the first try, so once I figured it out, I thought I'd share so maybe it helps someone else.
I used a vice mounted on my workbench, I don't know how you'd do it without this. I put a piece of vinyl around the new shaft to try to protect my paint job.
If you have paint or powder coat in the 'threads' of the flanges in the control arm (like I did), it really helps to get it out. This is difficult enough without having to fight paint in the threads. The threads I'm referring aren't really threads, they are just serrations that I assume are there to keep the bushing nut from backing off.
I greased the bushing nut, shaft threads and the rubber bushing with engine assembly grease. I didn't do this on the first try, and it definitely made a difference. (that and getting all the paint out of the flanges).
Slide the control arm over each end of the shaft. Greasing the rubber bushings makes this easier, because it is a close fit. Be sure in the lower control arm that the dimple in the shaft is oriented the correct way. (toward the front on the truck). It's important to start with the shaft centered in the control arm when you start, same number of threads sticking out on both sides. Also, the dimple in the shaft needs to be up and pointing slightly toward the center of the truck (away from the ball joint).
Thread the bushing nut on each end. Once you barely hook a thread to get it started, turn it a minimal amount more to get one of the flat spots on the hex head facing up. You want both nuts to be started about the same amount. Mark that flat spot somehow (I used a silver sharpie).
Now turn each nut one full turn. Right 1 turn, Left 1 turn, etc. This is what the sharpie mark is for. I made sure to do this in pairs, i.e. if you take a break, you'll know that both are in the same position (i.e. don't tighten one side then take a break, then come back and try to remember which one needs a turn). After tightening a couple of turns, you'll probably need to re-center the shaft in the control arm, as it can move around a bit.
If all is going well, the outer 'threads' on both nuts should come up against the flange at the same point in your process of tightening. Once they do, keep going 1 side at a time.
I had a socket to fit the upper control arm nut, but the lower nut is 42mm, which I don't have. I had to use my 24" crescent wrench.
Again, the dimple in the shaft needs to be up and pointing slightly toward the center of the truck (away from the ball joint). I didn't position it this way initially (photo below show it pointing straight up, which isn't right), and had to rotate the shafts in my vice once I tried to install on the truck.
When things start to get tight, one side will be easy because the control arm will be supported by the vice. The other side will want to rotate the control arm as you try to tighten the nut. Here's how I dealt with that.
If all goes well, you'll get to the point where both nuts are flush up against the control arm flange, with no gap at all. You can see here that the nut began to shave off splinters of metal from the flange, which is another way to tell that you are there.
Torque both sides according the instructions that came with your new parts. My lower shaft kit calls for 100 ft lbs on the nuts. I'm pretty sure I have all of that with my long wrench, but will borrow a socket from somebody so that I can check with a torque wrench. Ready to install!
