Quote:
Originally Posted by hamjet
In the 2nd photo it looks like a locking tab with a piece of it bent up to stop the nut from loosening. try cleaning it better with a wire brush to see if I'm correct. you will have to flatten out the tabs around the bottom if thats what it is.. I don't see signs of heat on the nut you say you heated, you need more heat( a hotter torch) if it won't break loose after bending down the tabs. sometimes a breaker bar with a hard wack of a BFH on the bar will shock the nut enough to break it loose....
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Yep just needed more heat, I took it to a buddies shop who has oxy acetylene and we heated it up a bit more and got it off. I thought it had been welded or had a locking tab as well but it turns out this is just how the nut looks on mine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmac73
I thought if you removed the yoke nut that would affect the pinion preload???That is the only reason i have not upgraded my yoke to a newer one yet..
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You can remove the nut but you should mark with paint or a punch so that the nut lines up in the same spot again on the pinion. What you are really supposed to do is use an inch pounds torque wrench to set the preload with the axles out of the diff and measure how much force it takes to turn the yoke. I believe its like 20-25 inch pounds. You are supposed to use a new crush sleeve if you do this too but I just kind of did this one by feel and made sure my punch marks lined up again.