Quote:
Originally Posted by Longbedstepper
I did use the old coil power wire for the distributer. Il try using some heavier wire and connect to something with some more power. The distributer I got from oreillys and came with some odds and ends that I assume are for tweaking the timing. It wasn't a cheap distributer but I can find the part number for you later.
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The problem with "connect to something with some more power" is that it needs to be switched through the ignition switch and that ignition switch is not designed for the extra load. Use the old coil wire to trigger a relay that uses power direct from the battery. If you have any problems with that wire not tripping your relay (people use it as a trigger all the time) just replace the resister wire with regular wire.
So if it came with some "odds and ends", like some off-set bushings and some springs for the advance, and it "wasn't cheap", it's probably the nice one no need for a part number.
Set your total timing to 36 degrees and let me know where your base timing falls in, and if it pings and under what conditions.
Ideally, you want about 10 degrees base, 36 total (vacuum advance plugged), (26 degrees mechanical plus 10 degrees base), and 50-56 degrees cruise (26 degrees mechanical plus the 10 degrees base plus 14-20 degrees vacuum advance) (cruise timing is where you get your best gas mileage from). You want all the timing you can get away with, without pinging.
If, under any of these conditions you get ping (depends on rear gear ratio, tire size, weight, drag, etc) then under those conditions the timing will need to be reduced to achieve ideal timing.
If you set it for optimal gas mileage, and do towing or heavy loads, you may need to back it down a little to keep from pinging under those conditions (overall timing).
Nice thing is, with the good distributor, it has instructions on how to set each of those parameters and know what to expect when you do it.