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NorCalAnthony · 10-09-2014, 11:17 AM

Looks like you're off to a great start

I'm gathering up the last few parts before I start my 5.3/4l80e swap on my '89 K5. Here's a couple of things I've learned so far that may help you:

A/C Compressor: glock35ipsc way of doing the air compressor is definitely one of the cleanest looking ways to go but I personally don't have the tools or fab skills to do it that way. If you want to re-use your stock R4 style compressor there are a few aftermarket companies that make relocation brackets for them so you don't have to buy an expensive Sanden unit. Or if you're on a tighter budget something that looks and works real similar is modifying the bracket from a pre-Vortec 4.3 V6 like they did here: http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/vi...p?f=34&t=79059. I was able to pick up the bracket, tensioner, and idler pullies on the cheap last weekend at one of the local yards so I'll be going that route myself.

Transmission: From what I understand, there's no easy way to convert a trans from 4wd to 2wd without a complete tear down. With that in mind, you might as well pick up a rebuild kit so you can replace anything that looks worn out. Although with the details you gave, your trans may not need it. It doesn't seem too difficult from what I was reading http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=532654

Fuel System: Sounds like you're already planning on switching to the ’87 tank and sending units which is good because you’ll need the baffling in those tanks to keep the pump from starving once it gets low and the fuel starts sloshing around. The pump that most people run is the AC Delco EP381 that supplies more than enough fuel for the LS engines and is a direct fit in the ’87 sending unit. As far as fuel lines go, if you want to go the easiest and cheapest way possible you can grab some higher PSI rated rubber hose with the stronger FI hose clamps. If you go that route you should be able to use your stock hard line to run from the tanks to the engine with short lengths of hose connecting them like a few people on here and a couple other forums have done. Or you can go the more expensive route and get AN fittings and adapters with some braided lines.

Engine: I’ve seen a lot of people that are real happy with the 212/218 cams and they're made by a lot of cam companies so lots to choose from. Another good option that I’ve seen is the Isky Tripple 12 that is technically a turbo cam but a bunch of people have run them in the 5.3’s NA with really good results. I’d recommend checking out ls1tech (if you haven’t already) to read up on what people are running as well as check out some of the sponsors. A lot of the sponsors over there also have members on the forums that are really great about answering questions and will even spec a cam specifically for your setup. Whichever cam you go with be sure to get some new springs to match it and most likely new pushrods to go along with the stuff you already have from the PO. Higher lift cams are hard on your valve train and require better (ie more expensive) components to handle it. If you’re on a tighter budget you can get a lower lift cam and use some LS6 springs ($50-60).

Good luck with your project. Keep the posts and the pictures coming

10-09-2014, 11:17 AM	#3
NorCalAnthony Registered User Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Lincoln, CA Posts: 208	Re: Finally starting my engine swap project: 5.3/4L65 into '84 short bed 2wd Looks like you're off to a great start I'm gathering up the last few parts before I start my 5.3/4l80e swap on my '89 K5. Here's a couple of things I've learned so far that may help you: A/C Compressor: glock35ipsc way of doing the air compressor is definitely one of the cleanest looking ways to go but I personally don't have the tools or fab skills to do it that way. If you want to re-use your stock R4 style compressor there are a few aftermarket companies that make relocation brackets for them so you don't have to buy an expensive Sanden unit. Or if you're on a tighter budget something that looks and works real similar is modifying the bracket from a pre-Vortec 4.3 V6 like they did here: http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/vi...p?f=34&t=79059. I was able to pick up the bracket, tensioner, and idler pullies on the cheap last weekend at one of the local yards so I'll be going that route myself. Transmission: From what I understand, there's no easy way to convert a trans from 4wd to 2wd without a complete tear down. With that in mind, you might as well pick up a rebuild kit so you can replace anything that looks worn out. Although with the details you gave, your trans may not need it. It doesn't seem too difficult from what I was reading http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=532654 Fuel System: Sounds like you're already planning on switching to the ’87 tank and sending units which is good because you’ll need the baffling in those tanks to keep the pump from starving once it gets low and the fuel starts sloshing around. The pump that most people run is the AC Delco EP381 that supplies more than enough fuel for the LS engines and is a direct fit in the ’87 sending unit. As far as fuel lines go, if you want to go the easiest and cheapest way possible you can grab some higher PSI rated rubber hose with the stronger FI hose clamps. If you go that route you should be able to use your stock hard line to run from the tanks to the engine with short lengths of hose connecting them like a few people on here and a couple other forums have done. Or you can go the more expensive route and get AN fittings and adapters with some braided lines. Engine: I’ve seen a lot of people that are real happy with the 212/218 cams and they're made by a lot of cam companies so lots to choose from. Another good option that I’ve seen is the Isky Tripple 12 that is technically a turbo cam but a bunch of people have run them in the 5.3’s NA with really good results. I’d recommend checking out ls1tech (if you haven’t already) to read up on what people are running as well as check out some of the sponsors. A lot of the sponsors over there also have members on the forums that are really great about answering questions and will even spec a cam specifically for your setup. Whichever cam you go with be sure to get some new springs to match it and most likely new pushrods to go along with the stuff you already have from the PO. Higher lift cams are hard on your valve train and require better (ie more expensive) components to handle it. If you’re on a tighter budget you can get a lower lift cam and use some LS6 springs ($50-60). Good luck with your project. Keep the posts and the pictures coming Last edited by NorCalAnthony; 10-09-2014 at 11:22 AM. Reason: Forgot something...