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Re: New project! The "Red Herring"
From what I've been reading, the 3* is not a hard and fast rule, but came about because it's what the OEMs used for years and when swapping a carb'd motor, you need the carb to be level. Since I'm fuel injected, that no longer applies.
Basically, all that matters is that at ride height, the trans and the pinion are parallel, so that the driveshaft angles are the same at both ends. This allows the u-joints to operate smoothly without binding. Likewise, 0* (having the trans and pinion directly in line) is not good, either, because it tends to induce vibrations. Somewhere between 2* and 4* angle is the happy range for u-joints.
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CURRENT
'50 GMC 100 shortbed Gen IV 4.8 LS - 4L65E (Secret truck, Shhh!!!) Build
'63 Buick Wildcat Coupe 401ci Nailhead (Very much in pieces) Photos
'66 Impala SS convertible 327-QJet-glide (4 speed swap one of these days...) Photos
'69 CST/10 4x4 SWB Stepper 350 2bbl - NV4500/NP241C (Broken Truck!)
'72 Sierra Grande 2WD LWB fleetside 350-TH350 Refresh
'99 K2500 Silverado RCLB 5.7 Vortec - NV4500/NP241C (Daily)
'99 K2500 Suburban 7.4 Vortec - NV4500/NP246 (still working out the bugs)
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'71 Custom/10 2WD LWB fleetside - '72 GMC K/3500 Dually (Sold to redryder)
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