Quote:
Originally Posted by 72 tigger
Coming together nicely- keep up the good work!
|
thanks! any advise or commentary is welcome guys i'de be happy to discuss opinions on tech or build direction.i much prefer that to "look at my truck aren't i great",even if we don't agree!
so i took a gamble and bought a clutch master gm#19183066 off ebay supposedly for 94-95 c2500 trucks(going off the ebay fitment guide) 18mm bore and 1.5" stroke. also 2 bolt flange for easier mounting than the 2000 master.its not plastic or aluminum either and being a gm part might allow easier replacement in the future. also the line points down where i want it and uses the russell adapter to the 4ft long -3an line that i have without another adapter stacked on that.i think a 3ft or slightly shorter clutch line will be perfect once the inner fenders are in and i can route it perfectly.
i wound up mounting the pushrod 2.5" down from the pivot on the pedal since it gave me around 1-1/2" stroke of the pushrod and drilled the corresponding holes in the firewall to mount the master with the pushrod level. also cut and extended the pushrod 1.5" so the pedal would be up against the rubber stop.
after getting it shoehorned in and bled by myself pretty good but not great i did the scientific test of pulling my truck to a hill and pushing down the pedal until it rolled. it started to disengage with the top of the pedal pad 4" from the floor and was free at 3" and had 2 more inches until the master bottoms out 1" from the bare floor.
i'm hoping it will be enough to let it shift freely whenever i finally get it running! with help bleeding it the pedal disengagement should be a little higher and i'll shorten the pushrod so the pedal hits the floor right before the master bottoms out.
also with power applied to the disk it will engage/disengage over more than the 1" of pedal throw it takes to roll or stop it on a shallow hill. even though it sounds touchy it actually felt pretty good.
as far as pedal effort it might be very slightly more than stock setup with a 12" clutch with freshly greased up linkage.
i put a spacer under the flange to tilt it up for bleeding that will come out when done
the booster brace wound up in the way so i had to bend,cut and weld it to fit behind the resevoir.
don't laugh at the linkage,its temporary until i buy a little heim joint and thread the pushrod for it. i figure its all temporary until it runs and is proven to work as desired.i plan on welding short pieces of pipe into the holes i cut in the firwall ribbing to stiffen them back up.i also might run a strap from one of the bolts to the brake pedal bracket under the dash as well to make sure it never flex fatigues and cracks.
