[Already Gone]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

The billet poly mount doesn't allow for any foreward or reward movement of the shaft like the very soft orignal bearing mount. Somethings gotta give when the rear suspension moves up and down the driveshaft needs to get longer and shorter before a solid atachment to the frame. In a one piece shaft the trans yoke is usually where it slips. On every other kind of multiple piece driveshaft on every non IRS has the slip in the rear shaft due to them having a more solid carrier mount.

I have built thousands of driveshafts and have a well equipped shop, this isn't a job I would do at home..... really. Its very easy to swap parts on a driveshaft, doing it properly takes a bit of skill, a little bit of knowledge, a hammer pare of dikes and a 9/16s socket and oh yeah a $50,000 driveshaft balancer.
This particular design of carrier is super sensitive to out of balance situations. Even if you mark everything and put the exact same parts back in the balance will change. Anybody who says anything different has never spent any time behind a driveshaft balancer.

Something that a shop will do that can take them 30 min is check to make sure your shaft is straight within .010" and the carrier stub is within .002" and straighten it if its not.

Thanks for your advice. I have no vibrations in the driveline now just a whine at certain speeds. I had it checked and was told my steady bearing was loose and that was causing the whine. I did have the differential serviced thinking that was the problem but after a thorough check and service of the differential the whine persisted. So your advice is to use an original type steady bearing and get the driveshaft checked and balanced by a shop. This may sound like a dumb question but if I bring my driveshaft to a shop, have it balanced and new u joints installed along with a new steady bearing on the truck when it all goes back together it will it be balanced and good to go?