Ok, it's been a while. I haven't been sitting on my tail end the whole time. I've gone almost insane overthinking the driveline issue. Measured and remeasured and then did it again. Thought about getting a replacement shaft with a CV added to it. Larry and I talked it out and figured we may not have to go to that extreme, yet. So I measured again. Using both the GM inclineometers and an app on my phone. Here's a look at the GM tools measuring.
Here's how this stuff works. The basic statement is you set the yokes so they are vertical at the diff and t-case. Put one at each u-joint cap and slide the indicator until the bubble is level. Read the scale where the indicator lines up. In this case it's 25.5 Degrees.
Then you take the second gauge at the t-case and take another reading. The reading here is 18 degrees. Yes the bubble is level, just didn't take the shot direct on to show it.
By using this form of driveline measurement, ideally we should have similar angles at each end. Subtract the smaller from the larger and it's off 7.5 degrees. I then remeasured using an inclineometer app on my phone as a double check. I got 3 at the t-case, 18 on the shaft and 11 at the pinion. Again subtracting the smaller from the larger between the t-case and the shaft and then the pinion to the shaft I ended up with a 15 degree working angle for the front and then a 7 degree working angle for the rear. Then subtracting the smaller from the larger and it's 8 degrees
Either way I do it the measurments it's within .5 of each other. The target is 8 degrees. After discussing with Larry the findings we plan on dropping the t-case crossmember to relax that front angle even if it's just a degree or two. I went ahead and ordered up a set of 8 degree shims from DIY4X as a kit with new center pins. The shims are steel and well built.
The Blazer will need to spend some time back in it's birthplace for the shim-ectomy. Then we can address the driveshaft itself.