Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregski
the drive side headlight wiring harness section proved trickier as it is the middle section of the daisy chain run
I'm gonna have to come back, and cut ans splice the headlight plug 3 inches over so it's not that tight when I plug it in (I am currently out of butt connectors)
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Don't use insulated Butt Conectors. They will come loose and cause all kinds of grief.
Solder and Heatshrink the connection. I generally use "Marine Grade"
Adhesive Lined heat shrink on connections that will be exposed like these.
Radio Shack 60/40 Sn/Pb rosin core solder is generally pretty smoky. I use
Kester 44 .80mm 66/44 Sn/Pb and
MG Chemicals Liquid Flux on old wires. <---That 1lb spool and tiny bottle is a lifetime supply. You can wipe off any excess flux with Ispropyl Alcohol.
Use a wet sponge to clean the tip. It'll clean off the corrosive burnt flux leavins and oxidized lead and tin. You won't have to use
tip-tinner cleaner as often, or maybe at all, if you keep the crud off the tip by wiping it often.
A third hand tool can be built with ROMEX and alligator clips... See the first few minutes of the last video. Eric uses a soldering gun. I don't recommend a soldering gun it's way to difficult to control the heat so it's way too easy to burn the wire jackets off.
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1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8
RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...
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