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Old 05-23-2016, 01:20 PM   #118
Super_Dave
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Sherwood, Oregon
Posts: 974
Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...

Before sending the NVU Gauge Cluster back, I took the weekend to do a proof of concept.

In another thread, I discussed the option of a Front Install Gauge Cluster using the OEM Dash Bezel. I had taken some rudimentary preliminary measurements and determined that it should be feasible with certain size gauges.

Over the weekend, I took a Dremel to the OEM Dash Bezel. I knew there were some specific peculiarities to the bezel. Some could be compensated for and others would have to be lived with. The goal was to see if both were acceptable.

Peculiarities:

System Gauges
  1. The top row are inset deeper than the bottom row by about .25".
  2. They have a raised silver ring inside the recess that has to be dealt with if the gauge bezel doesn't cover it.
  3. They have a cone shaped housing on the back that needs to be removed so the gauge lock ring can sit flush.
  4. They needed to have the inner silver rings removed as the gauge bezel would not cover the ring.
  5. The recesses needed something to fill in behind the gauge bezel once the inner ring was removed, as the gauge would fall all the way through.
  6. The recess walls are flared on the left and 90° walls on the right.

Speedometer-Tachometer
  1. They have all the same issues as the system gauges plus their front side bezel bases are oval, where as the system gauge bezel bases are not.
  2. Also they do not have the same flare issues as the system gauges, making the main Dash Bezel face area essentially flat.

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Given these parameters, I set about cutting into the OEM Bezel.
  1. I cut away the tapered backs of the system gauges.
  2. I sanded the areas flat with a ROS.
  3. I milled away the inner silver ring area, leaving about .125-.1875" flat land area.
  4. I laser cut trim rings to slide over the back of the gauges, so they would not fall through the new holes.
  5. I laser cut trim rings to slide over the back of the gauges, creating a base for the lock rings to tighten against.
  6. I cut away the back of Speedometer and Tachometer housings, leaving the flat area intact.
  7. I milled away the inner silver ring area, leaving about .125-.1875" flat land area.
  8. I laser cut oval trim rings and slid them over the speedometer and tachometer and put them in the new holes.
  9. I laser cut trim rings to slide over the back of the gauges, creating a base for the lock ring legs to tighten against.

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What I learned
  1. It is possible to mount attractive gauges from the front of the OEM Dash Bezel.
  2. If you take your time when trimming away the silver center rings on the OEM Dash Bezel, you will not gouge it like I did in a couple places. Using a Dremel with a .125" End Mill is not the tool of choice...
  3. The front trim rings, used to keep the gauges from falling through and to conceal your cut, are better off milled from aluminum so it will not flex when tightening the locking rings on the back. The back trim rings can be anything that will stand up over time and not crack or deteriorate.
  4. The black front trim rings were cut from black two ply acrylic (what I had on hand and not what I would use for a permanent install) which had a white back. The white shows up in the photos. Using a solid color material, or painted/powder coated aluminum front trim rings eliminates this issue.
  5. There are a number of custom gauge companies and some will sell just the gauges and not lock you into a lot of questionable "direct fit" parts you don't need. Some, like Speedhut, use 1" deep gauges and have adopted the locking ring attachment concept on all the gauges, not just the 2.0625" system gauges. I would find this preferable to the NVU "legs" on their larger gauges.
  6. The 2.0625" system gauges are the one's to use and the Speedometer and Tachometer need to be in the 4.75" diameter range measured at the front bezel. A smaller 3.375" diameter Speedometer and Tachometer could be used, you just need to adjust the width of your front trim ring.


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Assumptions still not proven


Since my project dash is still in the truck awaiting a stall to open up for the wiring harness install, I cannot prove the assumption that the OEM back housing will still fit on the back of the dash bezel.

If the back housing does fit, and the available 1" deep gauges lead me to believe it will, then you can retain your gear selection indicator and turn signal locations and hardware. If, for whatever reason, the back housing does not fit, and you want to retain the OEM gear selection indicator and turn signal functionality, you will need to modify the OEM back housing as need to accomplish the task.
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