The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network - View Single Post - Glock's new project: "Fred" w/ 5.3L LS swap info

Jaybob · 06-27-2016, 10:20 AM

Benscool1

No the factory pan will work just fine. Look at how I did mine. Puts the engine nice and far back where you want it. The original belhousing position. Most other plates set the engine forward 3/4" to 1".

https://www.instagram.com/p/BEGeq1ytH_V/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BEGeHqmNH-J/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BDyNlRMNH6w/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BC-uJz8tHxO/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BC-tmVFNHwQ/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BC-tS-0NH_r/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BFxpO4ut...olfandwildfire

To keep the original bellhousing location:
With the Dougs Headers SK100 mounts, you have to move the motor mount saddles that go from the frame to the crossmember back 3/4". You just have to drill 3 additional holes per side 3/4" back from originals.

To keep the original vortec truck ac compressor:
You have to move the motor mounts back 2 1/4" back the engine and frame. I found it easiest to flip the mounting plates and redrill the tapped holes to a new location. One factory clamshell bolt hole lines up with one LS bolt hole. The motor mount saddles were then widened the same 2 1/4" that the motor mounts were moved on the engine. All this does is move the motor mounts back on the engine. This don't change the engine location in the engine bay if you move the mounts and widen the motor mount saddles the same amount.

What I did - Kept the factory bellhousing position while using the factory LS truck AC system. This was done by moving motor mounts on engine back 2 1/4" on both sides. Then I removed and widened my motor mount frame to crossmember saddles 2 1/4" using a donor sent and welding them together. I also redrilled my frame and crossmember and moved the new widened saddles back 3/4" from the original position using the factory holes as a guide. This puts the engine in the origianl bellhousing location and as far back as you would ever want to go unless you want to start messing with the firewall. I used patriot 73-87 swap headers and they fit perfectly. I did a slight change to my shift linkage to make it easier to run my exhaust.

I am going to use the cold hose adapters to avoid having the notch the frame out for the factory ac lines.

Hope this helps.

06-27-2016, 10:20 AM	#1922
Jaybob Registered User Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 7	Re: Glock's new project: "Fred" w/ 5.3L LS swap info Benscool1 No the factory pan will work just fine. Look at how I did mine. Puts the engine nice and far back where you want it. The original belhousing position. Most other plates set the engine forward 3/4" to 1". https://www.instagram.com/p/BEGeq1ytH_V/ https://www.instagram.com/p/BEGeHqmNH-J/ https://www.instagram.com/p/BDyNlRMNH6w/ https://www.instagram.com/p/BC-uJz8tHxO/ https://www.instagram.com/p/BC-tmVFNHwQ/ https://www.instagram.com/p/BC-tS-0NH_r/ https://www.instagram.com/p/BFxpO4ut...olfandwildfire To keep the original bellhousing location: With the Dougs Headers SK100 mounts, you have to move the motor mount saddles that go from the frame to the crossmember back 3/4". You just have to drill 3 additional holes per side 3/4" back from originals. To keep the original vortec truck ac compressor: You have to move the motor mounts back 2 1/4" back the engine and frame. I found it easiest to flip the mounting plates and redrill the tapped holes to a new location. One factory clamshell bolt hole lines up with one LS bolt hole. The motor mount saddles were then widened the same 2 1/4" that the motor mounts were moved on the engine. All this does is move the motor mounts back on the engine. This don't change the engine location in the engine bay if you move the mounts and widen the motor mount saddles the same amount. What I did - Kept the factory bellhousing position while using the factory LS truck AC system. This was done by moving motor mounts on engine back 2 1/4" on both sides. Then I removed and widened my motor mount frame to crossmember saddles 2 1/4" using a donor sent and welding them together. I also redrilled my frame and crossmember and moved the new widened saddles back 3/4" from the original position using the factory holes as a guide. This puts the engine in the origianl bellhousing location and as far back as you would ever want to go unless you want to start messing with the firewall. I used patriot 73-87 swap headers and they fit perfectly. I did a slight change to my shift linkage to make it easier to run my exhaust. I am going to use the cold hose adapters to avoid having the notch the frame out for the factory ac lines. Hope this helps. Last edited by Jaybob; 06-27-2016 at 10:50 AM.