Unfortunately....I don't speak Spanish.
I am tasked with performing MANY starter/flexplate repairs when replacing/rebuilding automatic transmissions. As I am thrown to the wolves on diagnosing this very issue......This is my Opinion & Advise!
Check the Block for cracks on the starter pad, Chase the two straight across holes with a 3/8-16 thread chaser, Remove ALL the paint from the starter pad.
This requires a 153 tooth Flexplate! 2 piece rear seal flexplate application.....1983 Chevy Caprice 305/700R4.
Purchase a AC-Delco part# 19133944 starter for a '92-'96 Corvette, You will also need starter bolts for the same application.
Fitting the starter to most earlier blocks requires some modifications, See the pictures.....Fit the starter to the block as some engine blocks are cast differently at this location!
*I used a common bi-directional flat file to clearance the starter housing.
*I use a Air powered cut-off wheel/Radiac to clearance the engine block.
You can use a combination of the two, Or one or the other....Depending accessibility & preference, A guy with a rare engine block doesn't want you cutting chunks out it
Enjoy exceptional starter life, Increased cranking RPM, No broken Nose Cones, No hanging bendix/drive, Greatly reduced flexplate/ring gear wear, NO shimming, And the cool sound of a true gear reduction starter!!!
I installed one on a 402 BBC in a '72 C10 that has been trouble free for 13 years now that gave the owner/dealer starter issues since the truck was new. Just about every aftermarket starter that was available at the time was tried on this truck including a high dollar Tilton!
The pictures are of a starter install on a '84 Cutlass Supreme 1-piece rear seal 350/200-4R that had several starters installed with subsequent failures until I FIXED it!
