Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer#99
If the body is out of he way, pull the motor/tranny as one unit.
|
...I've heard you could do this using as little as a carb. plate on a cast iron manifold. Makes me a bit nervous for some reason. OT, I hear a transmission & torque converter weighs in @ 155ish.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killer Bee
.
|
I doubt you'll ever need a trans jack for your project.. trans jacks are primarily suited to r&r transmissions out of and in to fully assembled, running vehicles...
I try to buy the right tools to make the job easy as possible. I tend to make mountains of molehills until once done. Yeah, it's expensive. There's a space issue as well. I'm not young, nor a large guy either, if that makes sense. I may have my brother for help. He's not that healthy. That said, you guys may have talked me out of a transmission jack.
pro tip; remove yoke from driveline or procure similar for tool use purposes, and tie back to trans to keep fluid in.. even after draining an auto trans, when tilted enough, they will continue to dribble out the rear seal...
Sounds like a plan.
pro tip; loosen all of the converter bolts leaving only two snug for safety reasons.. when separating the trans later out of the vehicle, this will eliminate most of the wrestling around trying to keep rotating assembly from turning to break them loose.. leave two snug so when you forget the converter bolts were removed, you don't drop the converter on your foot when you separate them.. if you do remember, you can remove the two finger tight bolts, seat converter into trans and separate, removing converter from trans manually without damaging input.
You may have lost me. Are you referring to the flex plate to converter bolts? Speak of flex plate bolts, two are easy access. I don't begin to know how to get to the others.
I'll mention this here although it refers to reassembly.. seat the converter into the trans input fully and then join trans case to the engine block.. then align converter bolts to flexplate, pulling converter out just enough to meet and tighten.. never a good idea to mount converter to flexplate and attempt alignment while joining trans case to engine.
Yikes, I don't know what a transfer case is. I got homework to do.
in most cases where the engine is being removed, it's less overall trouble to remove the trans with it and separate them on the bench/floor.. hoist leveling adjustment bars on the engine hoist with anchor chains positioned front and rear of the engine block/heads should allow more than ample tilt angle to clear front core supports when body is not removed.. in your case with body removed, balance point shifted more to the rear of the engine will offset the trans weight and should lift straight up and out..
You guys talked me into pulling the engine/trans together using the heads. I have an equalizer etc.. Let's say I lay these on the floor, carefully. Doesn't damage the oil pan huh? Also, if it's on the floor, at the moment I can't visualize how to remove the transmission from the engine.
when I lift engine and trans assemblies out together, I usually lower the trans onto a wood pallet or something similar to support the trans and separate the engine near level so not to force misalignment on trans input..
Good advice, I'll provide for that.