Are you sure that your readings are accurate? Factory gauges are often just a guess, and sending units can leave something to be desired....
That said, if you're running a pressurized system in good working order, with reasonably fresh 50/50 antifreeze mix, you're still safe at those temps. Nothing should be boiling out.
I like to have these basics: Sealed system (takes a correct rad. cap) with a coolant recovery tank. This keeps the radiator completely full, and any coolant lost on hot shutdown will be recovered. Proper fan shroud is a must. HD fan clutch with a six or seven blade fan (if you have a flex fan, send it to the dump). With radiator, hoses, & t-stat in good condition, you shouldn't have any cooling problems.
https://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system3.htm
Fluid - Freezing Point - Boiling Point
Pure Water: 0 C / 32 F - 100 C / 212 F
50/50 mix of C2H6O2/Water: -37 C / -35 F - 106 C / 223 F
70/30 mix of C2H6O2/Water: -55 C / -67 F - 113 C / 235 F
The temperature of the coolant can sometimes reach 250 to 275 F (121 to 135 C). Even with ethylene glycol added, these temperatures would boil the coolant, so something additional must be done to raise its boiling point.
The cooling system uses pressure to further raise the boiling point of the coolant. Just as the boiling temperature of water is higher in a pressure cooker, the boiling temperature of coolant is higher if you pressurize the system.
Most cars have a pressure limit of 14 to 15 pounds per square inch (psi), which raises the boiling point another 45 F (25 C) so the coolant can withstand the high temperatures.