Quote:
Originally Posted by joedoh
it's not. battery to frame. battery to cab. battery to engine. the only way I would combine any of them is if the wire was continuous and had rings on the continuous wire. the stock S10 battery cable does this, has a ring for the frame on the battery to engine heavy cable. the connections to the frame and cab should be shiny bare metal and using a star washer to bite.
also. bolting a bed to the frame is not the same electrically as grounding a bed to the frame. neither is bolting a fender to a cab that is bolted to the frame. modern trucks have ground wires from lugs on the frame to the sheetmetal of the bed to pass the ground more efficiently. so what I am thinking is, you dont have a good ground on the bed, the brake bulbs are passing the ground back to the switch, which works till the brake light wire gets power. now something is trying to ground through it at the same time it has power on it. snap.
its all the different ground potentials that cause problems because the total voltage drop of a circuit is equal to the sum of all the voltage drops in a circuit.
it could very well be you have a short at the bulb holder, its not very likely on new stuff but it happens. I had a bad bulb holder on the 41 too, but it was an old one.
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OK you're blowing my mind here lol. So battery goes to engine block. With a smaller wire from engine block to frame and a wire from frame to cab. Would that ground everything correctly? I also read there is a 14ga from the core support to the front frame.
As for the rear I have ground wires in that fixture so I connected them to a nice clean frame bolt in the rear. Then I don't have to try ground the bed to anything. I'll play some more tomorrow and see how far I get
Update: Took the other park light apart. OMG!!!! Anyone see the problem of why there seemed to be a short?
Problem solved
