Ok, back to seriousness. Here's the PDM parts list. Recall I order in bulk on the terminals and cable seals so there are way more there than needed for the PDM, but in actuality those are the mins from Waytek on that stuff. So if you bought what I bought that's what you'd pay and you'd have leftovers. I just pick up the fuses from the local auto parts store. Mini fuses or ATM is what they are called.
The PDM uses all metripack 280 series terminals, which is one reason I went with Littelfuse. That's a common item and the spacing is standard, so the relays, circuit breakers and fuses can all be bought at the local stores. Most pre-assembled PDMs are that way as well (using standard fuse sizes).
Bussmann (Eaton company) does offer some nice pre-assembled PDMS, but in those cases, the relays are all setup for positive (12 V) trigger. ECUs prefer ground trigger to avoid the transient voltage spike that results from pulling current from a coil. The voltage spike backs up the positive feed, so if you switch with the ground you stay away from the spike for the most part. In my case, 4 of the 6 relays are ground switched. The other 2 are positive switched, but those are my headlights, so the spike just goes back to the battery which doesn't care and "absorbs" the spikes. Since I was building a custom PDM I went ahead and changed the headlights to relays but instead of re-doing the entire headlight circuit, I simply hooked the output of the headlight switch to the relay. IMPORTANT, when doing that, ensure you use a relay with a resistor otherwise you will pull way too much current! The parts list below is for relays with resistors. ECUs actually prefer a diode relay to really help dampen the transient voltage spike, but then you need to remember to put the resistor in the circuit yourself with the fuse (assuming the circuit isn't already current limited in some way). Not a big deal as Littelfuse sells resistors that fit in like fuses. But you can also just switch the ground side of the relay and all will be ok.
The other nice thing about the Littelfuse unit is it is fully IP67 rated assuming you assemble everything correctly. That's the point of the cable seals in the list. All metro-pack and weather-pack terminals crimp in the cable seal. A TPA (included with the Littelfuse box) helps keep the terminals in place and acts like a strain relief. Basically that thing is built up just like you'd crimp a metro-pack connector. Which I did a video on that too linked down below.
A link to PDMs on Waytek (I'm not sponsored by them):
https://www.waytekwire.com/products/...ution-Modules/
All the item numbers are Waytek numbers. Where available the manufacturing part number is in the description.
And here's a little gem I found that I'll pass on. When you do wire braid or convoluted tubing, you generally wrap the branches in what Painless Performance calls "Self-vulcanizing tape" and then they subsequently sell it for a pretty penny (like $30 a roll). The stuff below is where Painless gets the stuff and you can see it is much cheaper. Waytek will let you buy just one, but I pick up 2 when I restock.
