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Originally Posted by Jason7121
Hi Vic thought I would chime in on the window moldings. After several attempts with mine and 4 different glass shops I got mine done. The trick for us was to use precision brand weatherstrips and factory stainless trim that we polished. Aftermarket trim fits terrible. There were 2 different used on these trucks a deep groove and shallow groove trim the deep one works better to hold trim in the gasket. Whatever trim you get make sure gasket matches either deep or shallow. As far as brakes go I had same issue your having. I had luck bleeding the system with engine running and using the hydroboost to help push fluid through the system and also adjusting the hydroboost push rod until there was 1/2 Freeplay. Hope this helps your build looks great!
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Thanks, Jason, your advice on the trim is what makes this forum so valuable. I've been on the fence about converting to the reveal trim as I think it looks very nice. However, like anyone else that's purchased aftermarket trim from the various vendors, I figured it might be tough to work with... not to mention the heartburn if it doesn't turn our well. I had to go great lengths to get the aftermarket stainless drip rail trim to fit, so I'm thinking maybe I'll give the windshield trim a pass. Besides, apparently they don't make the matching trim for the small rear window so it would be plain anyway.
How are things in Visalia? I bought my first '69 GTO RA4 Judge from Arnold Wiebe there when I was stationed in Lemoore. Had to bribe Kathy with ice cream to get her to "just go look at it".
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Originally Posted by rustytruck50
That brake stuff is/can be unnecessarily frustrating. I fought that last summer with my '72. The m/c that the parts store swore up & down was correct turned out to be wrong. I couldn't get the brakes to bleed by gravity or with a hand vacuum pump. Once I looked it up myself on another parts store website & had them cross check the number, the problem was solved & reassured myself that I did remember how to do brakes! You may have been given the wrong master on yours to have it do the same thing....just a idea. I'm sure you'll get it figured out.
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Fortunately, I got the entire unit (hydraulics, m/c, linkage, etc.) from CPP so it's all correct. Turns out the problem was mainly air in the system. I have a Phoenix Systems "one man" bleeder setup. They make it look easy, but I can't seem to achieve the same results. It does fill the lines quickly, but there's always residual air. Today, Kathy and I used the old reliable method of one person pumping the brake pedal and the other cracking open the bleeder valves. Two trips around the truck and we had pretty good pedal. Will give it one more go after the engine is running and the hydraulic assist is functional. The really good news was that there were no new leaks. At least until the assist kicks in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aberdare
Yep... probably the single most overlooked item when mating new parts together. After mating the master cylinder to booster, adjusting the pedal to booster rod free play should bring everything into proper working order.
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I may need to revisit the free play once it's running. I adjusted the threaded rod coming out of the back of the Hydra-Stop just to where there's no preload. I can rotate the rod maybe a half turn back and forth between the spots where it tightens up, so I split the difference and snugged up the jam nut.
Rest of the day was spent sorting out a few electrical gremlins. The only thing left is the E-Stopp parking brake. It worked great when I tested it during the installation. However, when I applied power to it the the other day, it partially set the brake and quit. Now it just beeps. So I'll be on the hook with them tomorrow to see if they have any suggestions.