Quote:
Originally Posted by VetteVet
The strip in your picture looks like it will work well. Attaching the old connecter is something you will have to do, but!, You won't need the old alternator output wire since you've replaced it with a 10 gauge wire, so it's basically a dead wire now. The one from the battery is absolutely necessary since it's a charging wire for the battery and it's critical for the ammeter to work. It's size and length is programed into the specifications of the ammeter gauge.
The other red wire is the cab feed wire and you can use it to feed the firewall block. It's a 12 gauge wire which should be adequate for the fuse and instrument panel especially if you convert the headlight power from the headlight switch to to a couple of relays on the radiator support.
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I'm confused a little. I have the new 10 guage wire going from the alternator output to the new terminal. But, I'm thinking that I have to get power to the existing junction (solder by factory) by the headlight. I was going to do this by taking the end of the old alternator output wire that I cut from the alternator, but is still hooked up to the old junction, and send it to the new terminal because that's where the vehicle gets it power from. Am I wrong here?