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Old 05-13-2018, 05:54 PM   #22
Dukagora
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 30
Re: Solenoid to Motorized Fuel Tank Selector Valve

Hatzie I have what I think is the final question for all of this. I had all wiring connected and verified that everything works as it should. Can hear the valve click over and everything etc. etc.

Once verified, I disconnected the battery again and had to tuck everything away to make sure there was no issues with wires hitting the exhaust etc. etc. After doing that hooked up the battery again to do one more test run and I lost all dash power. Truck started and ran fine, but no dash lights. I took out a test light, not sure what I was doing. With the test light grounded to the dash, I started touching the tops of fuses. The first one I touched was a 20 amp which I didn't know at the time, but it was for the dash. Right side lit up but left didn't. Not sure if that was normal or not but figuring it wasn't, I started checking other fuses. Both sides light up on every fuse but that one.

After 10 minutes of cursing my luck at not having a 20 amp fuse, I found one! Confirmed I have enough 10 amps to replace them all in every squarebody in the country! At any rate, plugged in the new fuse and everything works again.

Obviously now the concern is what caused the blown fuse. To power the switch, I used the ignition wire that powered the original switch. I did NOT use any inline fuses of any kind. Just removed the wire from the old switch and moved it to the new one. Is this the reason the fuse blew? I realize that's not easy to verify, but there sure seems to be a connection to me. Any suggestions you might have for voltage checks would be much appreciated.
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79 Crew Cab Chevy C20 454/TH400
Previously Owned:
77 Crew Cab Chevy C20 454/TH400 with lots of rust. Long gone.
77 1/2 ton long bed 350/TH300. Dismantled for parts.
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