Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregski
My 1 pin has voltage with the key turned off. This is on my '71 by the way which I am running an internally regulated alternator circra 3rd gen now in a one wire configuration. I don't think I should just swap the wires on the pins, I think I should find a switched power source maybe? I did a similar one wire conversion on my '74 and that works great! so sometimes I know what I'm doing, lol
This 2 pin is correct it is hot all the time.
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Clarify this for me.
You have a 71 with an internally regulated alternator. It's now a one-wire alternator. Are you saying the wire that goes to no.1 pin is hot with the key on or off? Or have you installed a 3 wire internally regulated alternator and the wire is hot with the key on or off.?
If it's a 3 wire then you will have to find out why the pin 1 wire is hot with the key off. The wire that goes to the no.1 pin comes from the key switch accessory terminal where it is joined with a brown 12 gauge accessory terminal wire that feeds the fuse panel.
the no1 pin wire is a 20 gauge resistance wire equivalent to 10 ohms, which equals the alternator charging light on the light dashes. Gauge dashes don't have the light but they have the wire. it powers up the alternator when the key is turned on to ignition or to accessory.
I seem to remember a thread where a member had a feedback from the fuse panel to the accessory wire terminal which sent voltage to the alternator when the key was off. I think it was in the key switch harness plug and there was a short between a hot wire and the accessory wire.
When this wire gets to the cab side of the firewall plug it exits the engine side as a 16 gauge brown wire that use to run to the external voltage regulator, This is the same wire that goes to the no. 1 pin on the alternator.
If you can't find the source of the live voltage when the key is off then there are a couple of ways to work around it. It would be better to find the short but if you can't then we'll look at them.