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Old 08-30-2018, 09:34 AM   #17
BIGglaSS
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: ID
Posts: 663
Re: The Vandal. 1957 "Big glass" 3100 restomod.

Quote:
Wouldn’t some kind of paint inside the door after blasting have been easier than applying some kind of butyl material?
The only "right answer" is to completely remove the door skin, and blast/epoxy the inside. Though, this is not practical. The best solution is to keep the truck dry, and the surface rust still in the door will not grow.. Yes, where I was able to blast the rust completely clean, got coated with epoxy.

Paint Over Rust products will fail over time due to adhesion issues on rust. Because you can't get into every nook and cranny to completely clean out surface rust, epoxy will also fail. Once these coatings start to lift, moisture can wick under neath and rust will continue to grow at an accelerated rate.

My solution may not be the right way, but I think it will be adequate, and better than most restoration practices. It is nearly impossible to access all areas of the inside of the door. What you see, is only surface rust. This is before Oshpo.

Ospho is a phosphoric acid treatment. Acid treatments are a no-no for use under epoxy, unless it is properly rinsed and removed. Again, this is too hard to do inside a door, so the best solution is not use any kind of paint coating.

For sound damping, I'm using full membrane sheets, which according to the manufacture, are a moisture barrier.
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.co...cts/cld-sheets
I have used butyl tape products before on other projects, and over time, the heat slightly melts them onto the surface. Though, I have never used this exact product before, I assume it will work the same.

The door bottoms were not welded in, until I was done working inside the doors. Here is a shot with the CLD sheet installed inside the door skin.


And the last line of defense to coat the edge seams that didn't get opened, is Cavity Wax. The cavity wax flows into the seams, to protect rust from growing. Also, all new metal that was welded in, got the back side and seam coated with epoxy. It will never rust.
https://www.tat-co.com/Products/Repa...r-Rustproofing



I'm leaving the dash somewhat stock look. I deleted the heater controls, and made a cover plate from another ash tray. The A/C controls will be placed where the throttle/choke/lighter used to be. https://www.restomodair.com/shopprod...-a-c-controls/ . I might change the knobs with the stock knobs to give it an original look.

The ash tray will hold a usb port plugged into the Retrosound radio.

You're right about the glove box. I haven't solved that problem yet. I bought a shorty glove box from Restomod / Classic Air. With the glove box in place, I can't hook up the the ducts to the A/C unit. With the A/C unit in place, I cant get the glove box in. I will have to custom make my own glove box. That can wait until I get the truck running! (Because they're never done)
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My museum of good intentions: 1957 3100 BBW restomod -- 1970 442 W30
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