[rpmerf]

Had a of of fun with this on my 97.

When using a vacuum bleeder, put teflon tape on the threads to seal it from pulling air.

What I have always thought wasn't a great design, is bleeding basically forces you to push bubbles downward to get them out of the system. I found a way to push them back up.

Here is what I did that worked after years of replacing just about every part in the braking system. Pedal still isn't great, but it can lock the tires on dry pavement. The pedal was nice and stiff after I adjusted the shoes, but they seem to have gone out of adjustment again.

#1 - do whatever bleeding method to get fresh fluid through all the lines. I'll put a vacuum bleeder on, teflon the threads on the bleeder, a use a good head on the vacuum line so it doesn't pull air. I run the clear vacuum line go upward so I can see bubble well. While there is vacuum on it, pump the brakes. once you see a good fluid level go through the line, you should be good to move onto the next side.

#2 - reverse bleed. For this you want to be sure the fluid in the lines is all clean. You are going to push fluid from the bleeder to the master. To do this, I used a mason jar with some fitting JB Welded to the top, the vacuum line from my vacuum pump to push fluid through, and a regulator connected to my air compressor. The line that goes to be bleeder goes to the bottom of the jar so pressurizing the jar will push fluid out. Apply about 3-5 PSI from the compressor. You want to keep an eye on the master to be sure it does not overflow.

I think the pressure bleeding works well for the bubbles that don't want to push down. You get to push them back up and out of the system. There are proper kits for reverse bleeding if you want to google around a bit.

I've wanted to try pressure bleeding, but I think I ended up just making a mess. I used an old cap instead of a proper kit, so that might bad been why.