[SCOTI]

I've been pushing through & trying to get things done despite the heat & dead-ends in my attempt to utilize true tie-rod ends for the steering links. This was a concern of mine from day-one as I feel a true TRE would be better vs. a heim. I know lots of guys use heims on their builds. I know they're a common need on these aftermarket x-member/R&P set-ups. Lot's of guys also use bolt-in c-notches that kill frame strength but that doesn't make them the best choice especially when other options are possible....

I wanted to try other possibilities before defaulting to the use of heims. This was complicated by the recent spindle change (OE style spindle to CPP's modular spindle). It seems the CPP modular spindle is a little looser w/it's TRE pad tolerances.

To summarize..... Can't use OE C10 TRE's because of length (PB Dropmember + 1" narrowed arms + modular spindle). They can be cut down shorter but then would need to be machined to size & threaded. I don't have that equipment available to me & wasn't going to pay machine shop prices for a 'maybe it will/maybe it won't' mod. It was also not a 'correct' fit in the CPP spindles TRE pad (too loose/too much play).

I tried an alternative TRE that's been used before on C10's from a International Scout II. The books dimensions said it would work. In reality, the Moog part was a no go (stud too short) & it was too loose (worse) in the spindle TRE pad.

I tried a common 4wd upgrade option using GM 1-ton 4wd TRE's. These are HD sized but close in length needs (to the Scout unit) & threaded similarly (like the Scouts). The thread shank/size is larger but that's just a different adapter or re-drill/re-tap the heim adapter I already had. One requirement though was it required reaming the spindle TRE pad for a larger stud (if it would have worked, this would have corrected the loose tolerances of the CPP spindles TRE pad). I bought the correct reamer & gave it a go. Unfortunately, the spindles TRE pad required reaming it enough so that when the castle nut reached the point of inserting a cotter-pin, the TRE's body was closer than desired. It cleared when cycling the suspension but the grease-boot would have been destroyed in short order.

Can't say I didn't try....

So, the process of installing the heims (w/the correct 5/8" bolts) vs. just having them in place for mock-up (1/2" or 5/8" bolts depending on the spindles) required drilling the spindle TRE pad for inserts the correct size so that the 5/8" bolts were seated securely. I purchased inserts online (7/8" OD; 5/8" ID). Technically these were press-fit drill bushings. I bought 2 different sets: 1x 'standard'; 1x 'oversized'. The oversized bushings have additional material & require the end user to machine them to the final dimensions needed.

Drilling for the bushings was straight-forward.... Kind-of. I googled & watched YT videos of guys drilling the spindles w/a hand drill. Seemed sketchy but more than one off-roader has done it so 'timid me' just had to put my big-boy pants on & get it done. I strapped the spindle to keep it from moving. Used a uni-bit to have a nice 'starting pad' for the larger bits (started w/a 3/4"). It was almost immediately apparent in my head that this was NOT the correct approach. While I was able to drill through, the drill pulled/pushed if the bit dug in. Stop, reset, re-start. I got through but wasn't impressed. I thought "well maybe now that there's a 3/4" hole all the way through (vs. a tapered hole)… the next pass will ease my mind". Nope. Same drill (pun intended).

The 7/8" bit would dig in & pull the drill any direction but plumb. It was a PITA to keep it straight as this was the main focus. I was hoping I did good enough & suppose I did but I was not happy w/the 'quality' of the outcome. The 'standard' bushing had play when inserted from the top. It did fit snug (could barely insert it) from the bottom. One of the oversized bushings was used on this one (un-touched/as-is).

In the end, it required the hydraulic press to get the bushing seated in the spindle so I know I'm good but I also knew I WAS NOT doing the other spindle the same way. I knew it could be done 'better'. It took some staring & head-scratching but I figured out a way to get it done & luckily had some nice tools @ my work that made it happen.

The 2nd spindle took longer to set-up than it did to drill. But, once drilled, it was true & the 'standard' bushing had the same resistance top + bottom this time. Again, this bushing also required seating w/the hyd press.

So that's been occupying my shop time for the last 2-3wks. Researching parts options. Researching 'how-to'. Acquiring the parts. Buying another car. Getting it done. Getting it done correctly.... With the TRE task completed, I'll start next week & get the drivers side lower mount & passenger side C/O brackets finish welded.