Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy4639
Simplest way to do this is pull wire that was on the original distributor out of the wrap down to the fuse block. Leave yourself enough wire to splice onto it. Then run new wire back to HEI.
The original wire was a resistor wire but it wasn't the whole length of the wire. I have done this to several trucks and cars with no problems.
The picture is the wire connector on back of the fuse block. Yes I know it needs to be better but it just hasn't been done yet.
The original wire has the cloth jacketing on it so it's easy to follow back to the fuse block.
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That's alot of wrap between there and the fuse block. Sorry but I don't know what a resistor wire is other than it doesn't carry 12V? You are indicating that since the original wire was a resistor but not the entire length that it would be ok to split into in prior to the the resistor portion closest to the fuse block? How do you tell where the resistor ends?
I am looking at my fuse block on the drivers side firewall next to the brake booster and I am not seeing a wire with a cloth jacketing.
The truck runs pretty darn good with this configuration but now I am curious to know how much better it would run if not getting a full 12V at the distributor BATT post. Now my wheels are spinning about spark plug gap and wire gauge. The only issue I am having is just a very slight hesitation upon acceleration off the light but I was told that the 600 CFM carb as a bit much for the 307.
I have a multimeter but not sure how to test for 12V on the wire currently being used.