Quote:
Originally Posted by NeoJuice
Its a very good video but how much 'pre-load' should you put on the lifters? He uses 3/4 turn past zero lash in the video.
I'm putting together a game plan in my head on how I'm going to tackle replacing the timing chain job. Here are my thoughts.
1. Pull all accessories off/out (Rad, water pump, alternator, plugs)
2. Rotate motor to TDC on piston #1
3. Remove lower pulley & harmonic balancer
4. Remove timing chain cover and inspect chain gears/block/cover for any damage and make sure the timing marks line up on the gears
5. Remove gears and use a puller to remove botton gear.
6. Install new Edelbrock #7800 true roller timing chain set. Is a thrust bearing needed or required? any videos I've seen on youtube dont show needing one but they do sell them.
https://www.edelbrock.com/performer-...5-7l--v8-82965
7. Test timing chain cover fitment for any possible contact
8. Remove valve covers and check zero lash on lifters or should I loosen the rocker arms then then set zero lash then set pre-load? Minimum two revolutions engine rotation.
9. If any damage was found in #4 drain oil and remove oilpan and install new gasket. This will also fix the oil pan sweat on the back of the pan.
10.Install new oil pan gasket and timing chain gasket/seal and torque to spec with permatex gasket maker.
11.Install new valve cover gaskets and re-install valve covers
12.Install Harmonic Balancer with press on tool and install lower pulley
13.Install water pump with new gaskets
14.Re-install all accessories (Rad, alternator, plugs)
15.Install new fluids (oil,coolant)
16.Double check, tripple check everything
17.Prepare for startup.
18.Set engine timing and carb. |
1. OK.
2. OK.
3. OK.
3a. Pull the pan. (See my and dsraven's most recent post.)
4. OK. (There won't be a chain if it's a gear drive.)
5. OK.
6. OK. No thrust bearing needed.
7. OK. It'll be OK unless the cover is stove in, but knock yourself out.
8. Check the lash first to gauge the skill of the previous assembler, then set the lash exactly as shown in the video you posted earlier.
9. Oil pan was pulled in 3a.
9a. Check torque of all rod nuts, crank bolts and oil pump. Inspect the coupler between the oil pump and oil pump drive shaft. Do a visual inspection on the camshaft lobes, piston skirts and lower cylinder walls. Check the pan for anything hitting it. If a stroker crank is installed, check the block for anything hitting it.
9b. Check bearing clearances using plastigage (See dsraven's post, above.) Check the condition of the half bearings in every rod cap and crank cap. (Other half of the bearing will be OK if the lower bearing half is OK.) Take a good look at the rear main seal, but don't remove unless damaged. If it's all good, re-torque all caps.
10. Install a new timing cover crank seal using a high-quality RTV sealant like the old Permatex Form-a-Gasket blue or black goop on both sides of the gasket. (I haven't kept up with the marketing idiots that apparently have changed the name from "gasket sealer" to "gasket maker".) Smear the installed seal and crank nose with a light coating of oil or grease.
10a. Install timing chain cover and gasket using a THIN coat of "blue goop".
10b. Install the two oil pan side gaskets using a hi-tack spray adhesive on the block side of the gasket and a THIN coat of "blue goop" on the pan side. Put a SMALL dab of blue goop in the corners, then install the end rubber gaskets, then put a SMALL dab of "blue goop" in the corners again. (If you use blue goop on both sides of the side gaskets they will probably spurt out when you install the pan. If you use gobs of "blue goop" anywhere it will find its way to the oil pump sump and elsewhere, causing restricted oil flow and general mayhem.)
*** OR DO WHAT DSRAVEN SAID ABOVE FOR GASKET TREATMENT. ***
10c. Install the pan.
11-18. OK.