About a year ago this board provided me some good advice on modifying a rebuilt 400 SBC that I had acquired -
thread is here. Unfortunately, either the cam I selected was just a touch too hot or the rebuilt smog heads weren't up to the task because in the span of less than 150 miles of break-in a majority of the rocker studs pulled out or broke. Not the end of the world - I yanked it out and slapped the original tired 350 back in and have been motoring happily since.
The tired original engine may be reliable but I still want more pep, so I'm eager to throw some cash and effort to getting the 400 back into service. It is sitting in my shop as a short block.
The question is: What combination of parts should I use to make the best engine I can to motivate my 1980 Suburban?
Here are the specs as they stand now with the short block:
BLOCK - T0505TLS casting 2-bolt 400 SBC bored .040 over according to the piston tops and my crude caliper measurement (HEY, I GOT A 409!)
Dished Sealed-Power 40 over pistons sitting 0.025 in the hole
CAM - Lunati 10120701LK hydraulic flat tappet, 213/219 duration at 050, 0.454/0.468 lift, 112 LSA
EXHAUST - Currently cast logs into 2-1/2" duals and Flowmasters. Not a fan of headers, but will probably give them a try again this go around.
SUBURBAN - 1980 K10 converted to 1978 K20 running gear
rebuilt TH400 trans with an 1350 stall converter, NP205 t-case
3.73 gears running ~32" tall 255/85/R16 tires
BUDGET - Although I know it would be smarter to just buy a new crate HT383, that isn't in the cards. I can spread ~$2,200 out over the next four months easier than I could plonk down $5K for the crate setup.
I want to buy a set of quality assembled heads that I can bolt on and run with, and I'm willing to spend as much as $800 each from Summit if that is what it takes. After reading many threads here I don't think I want to go the Vortec route - I'd prefer to use my current Edelbrock 2101 intake that I know will work with my Harrison A6 AC bracket. I'm already buying premium 91-octane fuel because that is the non-ethanol option in my area, so a higher compression ratio is possible but who knows what kind of fuel I may have to buy on a long trip.
My goal is to achieve the highest level of reliability and longevity with maximum area under the HP/torque curve from off idle to a max of 3500 rpm. Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge and experience.