Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer#99
If you jack the motor up a couple inches it will come out. Be mindful of the distributor cap and the bottom rad hose.
I slide a 2x2 between the mount and tower to give enough room.
Sometimes you need to hand crank the motor over enough to swing the front rod journal up out of the way.
And always remove the negative battery cable. No sparks wanted.
With an old or new pan I’ve got in the habit of installing them dry. Just bolted on lightly at the four corners. Put a small flashlight inside the pan and you’ll easily be able to see any gaps on the sides and how parallel the gap is on the ends.
I’ve had stock and aluminum pans not fit well.
At least with steel you can wack them back into shape.
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Dont forget to disconnect the exhaust pipes from the manifolds or headers. Made that mistake a couple times.
Fel Pro says not to use any RTV on their silicone rubber pan gaskets. I don't follow those instructions, I still use some on the end seals and in the corners. Its not the gasket will be damaged by RTV use. I just used Rite Stuff front and rear and in the corners on my 383. It has a stock pan and a cheap chrome timing cover. Shockingly, it didn't leak when I dyno tested it.