Quote:
Originally Posted by dfarr67
Thanks, do I rebuild what I have or is there any merit going with the earlier gun drilled shafts with a different lube circuit? Not racing just a nice meduim duty towing/4x4/street build behind a torquey 385 TPI.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfarr67
A few other questions as well.
- My mechanic has had to replace a few trans alum oil cooler lines on newer GM trucks as the crimps let go on the rubber hose portions. My truck is a 1989 K1500 with 700r4- would I order 1998 K2500 454 lines (are these steel?), or make my own, my oem steel lines never gave me any trouble.
- Regarding frictions are all HE created equal or try to find BW rather than Alto or Raybestos?
|
Use the 2005 core, The early "Conventional Lube" & Late "Center Lube" both lubricate well.....
The only Achilles Heel on the "Center Lube" unit is if the AFL filter cracks, The Case Bushing, Case Thrust, & Output Bushing will starve for oil, Always 100% replace the AFL Filter & don't crack it during installation.
DO NOT mix parts between conventional lube & center lube units......Sure, There are parts that swap, Like the O/D unit, Forward Drum, & Direct Drum but few other pieces!!
A early drilled Main Shaft will probably be OK in a Center Lube unit, But a Solid Main Shaft in a early unit would be disastrous!!
I've never had the guts to try a early main shaft in a late unit, So even that is speculation.
It's not the line material or the crimp for that matter behind the failures, It's the Junk thin wall hose GM uses & cold temps aggravate the issue, When I come across this failure on 4L60E/4L80E, I split the crimp 180 degrees with a cut off wheel, Remove the old hose & crimps, Replace the hose with Gates 400psi Trans Cooler hose & use "Pinch Clamps".
Hose failures are more of a Allison 1000 problem because they run 3X the cooler line pressure of a Hydramatic, Maybe this is what the mechanic is alluding to??
I would just run some AN Braided hose on a '89 as the later "Center Lube" lines will be Quick Disconnect & not compatible with your radiator or auxiliary cooler. Get the correct fitting for the rear cooler line port!
I use Borg Warner frictions because that is what GM uses, If they could get away with cheaper frictions.......I'm sure they would.
I use some Raybestos specialty frictions from time to time. I'm sure their stock replacement stuff is OK.
Alto has screwed me to many times with their JUNK, I had one of their Red Bands completely delaminate & ruin a $100 drum & they wouldn't even warranty the Band.