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Old 04-22-2012, 03:09 PM   #75
turp mcspray
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Rapid City South Dakota
Posts: 2,359
Re: New life for an old 2wd, farm Blazer

Wow, It's already been a month since the last time I posted pics. I've been hitting my own blazer pretty hard, every saturday, so I haven't had time to keep the thread going, like I should.
Before I forget, I'll give a LITTLE better description on the bedside install. I should have taken more, and better detailed pics as I went.
I started by drilling out the spotwelds holding the inner and outer skins together, as well as the tack welds around the wheelwell area. In my eyes, this was the quickest, and least amount of work to do it.
Next I cut 5 1/2" off the front of the new skin. This will put the weld seam over the inner B pillar panel (you can see what I mean if you look up inside the front of the bedside area with a light, from the bottom of the bedside). I cut the top rail of the bedside back at about a 45 degree angle. I took some measurements of the gas neck area, so could duplicate it on the new bedside, in the right spot.
Next drill out the spotwelds on the original bedside, just like on the new.
Cut the front of the bedside back 6" or 7" (enough to be able to overlap the new side).
Same on the top rail. You will final trim these later.
Once the old side is removed, hang the new side for a trial fit. Once the bed to tailgate gap is good, and the front edge is overlapped, and fits the contours nicely, install some sheetmetal screws in the top rail, and in the rear taillight area. This way after you remove it, you can get it back in the same position.
Next I took the gas filler piece that I cut from the original panel, laid it in position on the new bedside, and lined it up with my earlier measurements. I then took a sharpie and traced the inside of the hole. Cut your hole about a 1/4" smaller than your drawn line. Try to make your cur as accurate as possible. Next I took a small channel lock style plier, and bent the 1/4" lip inward to duplicate the factory stamped lip. Do a little hammer and dolly work as needed. Test fit you filler neck and rubber seal. You could weld in the filler hole piece, but then you would have to deal with the extra work from welding on flat side panel piece. To me this is the best and cleanest way to add the hole.
Moving on to the front of the bedside, scribe a line down the front edge, and your top rail angle. Remove the new bedside.
Now trim your original side back to your scribe line. At this time deal with any inner B pillar rust. There will be some I am sure! You may have to reinstall the side to fine tune your edge where the old and new will be buttwelded together.
As far as the lower front bedside to door area, I took the piece of the new bedside that I cut off, and made a small patch out of it, to extend the new bedside all the way to the door, and into the jamb. Sorry, but I forgot to take any pics of this step.
Once everything fits to your liking, you can weld it on. Before welding around the wheel well, look down the side or take a long straightedge to it, and make sure you haven't pushed it in too far, making a large "dip" over the wheel well.
I hope this makes sense with the lack more detailed pics.
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Turp Mcspray
New life for an old 2wd, farm blazer
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=505987
My Blazer build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342299
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