[dsraven]

I would say that if you already have the axle in and driveline etc built for it then keep the axle in there, just to save some cash. if you want to upgrade to disc and have some extra cash then cruise the pick n pull for the parts. try to find a zr2 S10 because they are nearly the right track width and will have disc, posi and lower gears due to larger tires sized for that model. this may require a driveshaft mod though if the pinion is longer as well. if you can't find a zr2 then look for a disc rear from a s10 and grab all the disc brake stuff or the whole diff, take it home and mock up the caliper mounts on your diff. you may need to have some spacers made up like the superchevy article shows. notice they have a full circle adapter that bolts on to the diff flange, then some spacers to get the caliper mount out there where it needs to be. if you have the complete diff then you have oodles of time to measure etc etc so you get the dimension right. I believe the article said something about right and left side backing plates to get the ebrake in the right location so maybe do a read first so you end up with the right parts. strip off the stuff you need at tjhe wrecker and quickly assemble the diff so it is in one piece before you truck on through the till. that way you also get to check the bearings, gears and locker quickly as well. if you need parts later or wanna rebearing the unit because you can try the gear centre for a bearing kit, they are usuallyu reasonable. if it were me i would grab the master cylinder, proportioning valve, ebrake cables and foot pedal anything else brake related for the swap.
that is why I went with a ford 8.8 on my truck (originally) because the 10 bolt was weaker or not the right width, the 12 bolt was non existant in the right width and anything that didn't need a total rebuild, a ford 9" was too much cash outlay and the explorer 8.8 is at every wrecker I was at. the choice seemed easy. I gathered up the ebrake cables and equalizer connector, the pads, rotors, stabilizer bar etc had grabbed an extra brake rotor as well. when I got home I cut the extra rotor down so all I had left was the mounting flange, then had a buddy with a lathe mark out the wheel bolt pattern I needed to match the front end on the donor rotor flange, and he drilled 1/4 inch holes at the right places between the ford holes. then I simple bolted that flange onto the axle using the ford pattern like usual and tightened it down with some wheel nuts, drilled through the ford axle flange using the pilot holes in the template, removed the template part and then drilled the pilot holes with the right sized drill for some new studs to match the front size. after that the rotors need to be redrilled as well, and the ford studs taken out. no biggie. keep the template with the truck so if you have a brake issue down the road the template is there at all times. you need to cut off all the ford brackets etc and weld on some new spring pads at the right location for the old truck. spring pads can be sourced at a spring/trailer shop like Standens. just need the axle tube size. just don't weld the whole thing at once or the diffcan get "bent" from the expansion/contraction process of welding. the driveline flanges are different as well but grab what you need at the wrecker and have the driveshaft modified for the end purpose. you could look for a mustang 8.8 as well because the diff center section is in the middle, not offset.