I've updated the speakers the way I wanted to do it. If you prefer a different method add it to your build thread.
My truck has the "Enhanced" UQ3 uplevel six speaker option. Woofer and tweeter in the front doors and Speakers in the rear doors. I would guess the enhanced is the tweeters with the Capacitor that probably acts as a rudimentary crossover.
I have an inexpensive Kenwood KMM-BT522HD head unit. It sounds fine and it didn't require cutting up the dash support to fit a deeper than stock head unit.
I kept the steering wheel controls and the warning chimes with a Crux CS-GMC2.
NOTE: This module seems to interfere with writing updated configurations to the PCM through the J1962 port (OBD II). Modules that don't interfere may exist... however the first question asked in communications issues threads is "Do you have an aftermarket radio or chime replacement unit connected to the Class II databus." Unplugging the factory radio plug from the aftermarket hardware fixed my comm issues.
I have zero issues running bi-directional diagnostics with my Tech 2 or my MDI with Tech2Win so this may be an interaction between HP Tuners and the Chime module.
After 15 years the speakers are showing their age.
I decided to look into better speakers. Infinity and others require mods to the door panels. I decided I didn't want to do that.
The UQ7 Bose speakers are a drop in with the exception of the tweeters... Bose tweeters were mounted in the A pillars the UQ3 tweeters are bolted through the front door cards behind the speaker grilles. They're both high audio frequency speakers. I chose to keep the UQ3 tweeters rather than run wires to the A pillars.
To get to the speakers you have to pull the door panel.
Pull the door panel. There are only three screws. Two 7mm screws... one behind the manual lock and one slightly hidden behind the door pull and one T25 Torx with a shoulder washer under the trim cap at the rear edge of the panel about level with the pull handle.
Lift out the manual lock from the rearward edge as the front edge is a hook.
There's one pine tree push in trim rivet. The switches on my 2005 were screwed to the door card so you have to unplug them after you release the door card.
The tweeters are in the door card so you get to unplug them and the puddle lamp bulb needs to be unplugged.
When you re-install the door card start with the hooks on the bottom and then tilt it up and press down.
This video shows all of the removal points but isn't real clear on how to actually pull the panel. Just lift straight up on the door pull and then carefully tilt it slightly away to get access to the electrical plugs.
The Class 2 data connector to the switches was a beast to remove on mine so I just carefully worked with it connected. If you need to remove the data line the latch swings down and pushes the plug out of the switch module similar to some PCM & BCM plugs. Pulling the other connections from the switches provided me enough slack to R & R the speakers.
One of the old tweeters was squeaking and I found the other unplugged. I replaced them with the
GM 14204326 UQ3 tweeters.
To access the UQ3 tweeters you need to remove the speaker screens from the door card or be a contortionist and reach through the large hole and jockey the tweeters in and out. I pulled the screens.
Carefully bend all of the tabs up and carefully push them through the door panel. One is slightly hidden at the top under the tweeter wire.
This is a good time to clean the cruddy dusty door card behind the screen and clean the screen itself. I used Dr Bronners peppermint liquid castile soap and a very mild brush with hot water on the screen and Windex on the panel and it didn't damage the finish on either.
You need an 11mm hex driver to remove the sheet metal nuts on the tweeters. Be sure to keep the 11mm sheet metal nuts. You'll need these to install your new tweeters.
When you have the tweeter installed carefully re-install the screen. It's a little fussy to get all those tabs in the slots... it helps to make sure they are all straight up... don't use pliers on them they bend easily with finger pressure. Once the screen is back in place bend the tabs back over while firmly pushing on the front without deforming the screen. I pushed directly on the outside over each tab as I was bending it and I bent most of them out from the speaker cavity... the top tab doesn't lend itself to bending out so bend it in.
I discovered an interesting thing when I pulled out the speakers... UQ3 speakers are part number 19116641. The speakers in my front doors are the $20 base model 15183361 units. My SPID claims she came from GM with UQ3 speakers. My guess is that someone replaced them with the cheapest speakers available from GM sometime in the last 15 years.
The
UQ7 GM Bose 15236987 woofers or whatever you want to call em are a drop in replacement for the existing speakers. No monkeying with the plugs or the mounts. They cost right around $50 each.
The 15183361, UQ3 19116641, and UQ7 15236987 have the same factory connector and door mount.
Just replacing the four front speakers made a huge difference in the sound quality. I can actually turn up the sound without nails on a chalkboard from the blown tweeter and rattling from the speaker cones in the woofers.
This is a picture showing the difference in construction between the BOSE speaker and the UQ3 GM speaker.
Note the foam in the Bose speaker latching clip. It acts as a rudimentary spring to keep the latch and tabs from rattling. If you're replacing the old speakers just pull the foam out of the old speaker and the clip becomes very easy to compress.
